Is there anywhere more chill in California than this?
California’s bucolic SLO CAL region, which fills the gap between Los Angeles and San Francisco, entrances our writer on a trade fam trip organised by its tourist board
“When you do something scary, just do as I do and close your eyes,” declares my fast-quipping driver, unleashing a tried and tested line from the off-road driver’s icebreaker manual. His laid-back Californian charm quickly morphs into dune-bashing tyrant, however, as he slams, slips and flips our Humvee vehicle around the sand dunes of Oceano Dunes State Vehicular Recreation Area with near maniacal abandon, thoroughly testing its military-grade mettle.
This tour with Xtreme Hummer Adventures proves a rare adrenaline rush on an otherwise relaxing and highly enjoyable foray into California’s SLO CAL region. “South of the Bay, and north of LA”, it’s around a four-hour drive from either San Francisco (SFO) or Los Angeles (LAX) airports, another option being to fly into the local San Luis Obispo airport.
FIRST THINGS FIRST
SLO CAL was a brand conceived to differentiate San Luis Obispo County from other central California coast contenders, and over a five-night stay our group enthusiastically probes the area’s outer limits, from southern points such as Oceano up to picture-perfect Ragged Point, the gateway to Big Sur. Cambria, Morro Bay and Avila Beach also feature among our roll call of cute coastal towns.
Of the inland centres, it’s clear why Paso Robles is a popular stop in wine country. Here, the new River Lodge is sister property to Farmhouse Paso Robles. San Luis Obispo impresses most though, its grids of immaculately preserved historic architecture bristling with enticing eateries, bars and independent stores, while cool, cosy Hotel SLO provides an excellent base for day-trip explorations with local operator Breakaway Tours.
Two nights in Pismo Beach complete the mix. Here in my beachfront room at Vespera Resort, a Marriott Autograph property, I’m serenaded to sleep by the soothing sound of waves breaking just beyond the terrace.
SLO CAL FLAVOURS
Central California was light years ahead of the US’s “farm to fork” movement, and fresh produce informs the local offering throughout, from healthful, hearty cafe breakfasts to bountiful farm shops and high-end dining. Again, San Luis Obispo excels, from cocktails at Nightcap, the Granada Hotel’s atmospheric bar, to dinners at Bear & The Wren and Hotel SLO’s restaurant, Piadina. Finding ourselves in town on a Thursday evening, we follow the crowds to the weekly Downtown SLO Farmers’ Market. Equally delightful are informal breakfast spots such as Hidden Kitchen, in Cayucos, dining outdoors to capitalise on those piercingly bright skies.
SLO CAL’s wine offering is another strength, and I drink deep from this horn of plenty. Call me an old lush but I can think of few more pleasant ways to while away an afternoon than by occupying a seat at a long table sampling local varietals alongside tasty home-grown produce, as we do at characterful properties such as Tolosa Winery.
While Paso Robles area legends include Daou, Niner Wine Estates and Justin Vineyards & Winery, my highlight comes courtesy of CASS Winery, savouring its seductive setting over a lunch accompanied by choice tipples. This before touring its eight guest rooms – exquisite reworkings of old shipping containers, each with a music-related theme.
“We’re definitely outside-the-box thinkers,” asserts marketeer Chanda Brown, revealing plans to add a swim-up wine bar by summer. “CASS is really just about bringing people together, and that’s what wine does.”
OUTDOORS ACTION
SLO CAL’s enviable climate draws visitors outdoors to explore its varied terrain, from rolling hills and nature reserves to stunning coastal stretches. A bracing morning walk along the Montana de Oro Bluff Trail has dramatic clifftop vistas, the trailside scrub strikingly accented by vibrant wild flowers.
An e-biking tour with Central Coast Kayaks reveals the serene charms of Bob Jones Trail – we stop for supplies at one of the great local farm stores before reaching charming Avila Beach. Whales can be seen year-round off
beaches like this one, with humpbacks on show from mid-March through December.
Horse riding is another popular pursuit around the Oceano Dunes, and I get my fix touring Covell’s Ranch in Cambria, where visitors can ride the resident Clydesdales.
Vista Point’s elephant seal colonies serve up more wildlife interactions, while the sea lion sightings on my pootle around Morro Bay with Estero Adventures are eclipsed when we spot a juvenile whale.
COLOURFUL QUIRKS
Ultimately, my trip proves as illuminating as the neon sign that greets me on arrival in Pismo Beach, the Sensorio light installation and a Mural Trail among SLO CAL’s other artistic expressions.
I also relish the local “quirks”, not least my guided tour of Hearst Castle. Commissioned by publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst, its improbable, mishmash stylings defy description.
Lovers of the style can also find the architect Julia Morgan’s flourishes at Robin’s, in Cambria, where I enjoy an indulgent dinner.
Nothing comes close to the Barbie-licious pink kitsch stylings of the Madonna Inn, however, where a bumper breakfast at Copper Cafe sees me follow in the footsteps of Dolly Parton, and if it’s good enough for the Queen of Jolene, who am I to argue?
Book it: Gold Medal offers a nine-night SLO CAL holiday with three nights at Argonaut Hotel, San Francisco; three nights at Vespera Resort, Pismo Beach; and three at The Garland, Los Angeles, from £2,069pp. This is offered room-only and includes Alamo car hire and British Airways flights departing Heathrow for San Francisco on 25 February 2025, returning from Los Angeles on 6 March; goldmedal.co.uk
SLO CAL snapshot
Smarter: SLO CAL makes a logical, year-round stopover on open-jaw Cali coastal tours between San Francisco and Los Angeles. The green, springtime months from March to May are particularly recommended, with good years seeing wild flower “superbloom” events (slocal.com).
Better: It’s not just about the award-winning wines at the eight-guest-room CASS Winery. Guests can enjoy its activity-packed Camp CASS programme, from e-biking and horse riding to axe throwing (casswines.com).
Fairer: San Luis Obispo’s solar-powered cinema and a Sustainable Wine Trail feature among SLO CAL’s myriad eco-offerings, while Justin Vineyards & Winery holds a Green Michelin Star (justinwine.com).
Trade talk
Cath Pusey, product director, America As You Like It, says: “SLO CAL is definitely a relatively undiscovered California gem. I was surprised how much was on offer and that there’s so much more than the coast. Inland, the small towns, rolling hills, farmland and vineyards offer such an array of things to do and see the area is definitely worth at least a two or three-night stay. It’s a great destination for families and couples and combines well with other stops on a Pacific Coast Highway fly-drive.”
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