‘I found coastal bliss on the west coast of America’

As we come in to land, numerous US Navy ships dotted around San Diego Bay catch my eye. Given my love for seafaring history, I instantly know I am going to enjoy this city.

It turns out that Naval Base San Diego is the country’s largest station on the West Coast, and the city provided inspiration for films such as Top Gun, with scenes from both movies in the franchise filmed on the sandy shores of San Diego’s Coronado Beach.

“There’s not much frowning here,” says Scott Drombowski, our guide from So Diego Tours as we walk past Little Italy’s brightly lit trattorias. Little Italy was integral to San Diego’s development in the early 20th century when Italian fishermen settled in the area after a boom in tuna fishing. “It is also one of the most sustainable cities in the USA, as most organisations, especially hotels, have a clear initiative to recycle and reduce food waste,” Scott adds, gleaming with pride.

San Diego also ranked as the country’s most expensive city in 2023, but this doesn’t appear to deter residents, who are compensated by the sunny climate and the opportunity to enjoy the great outdoors all year round.

I check into the recently renovated Lafayette Hotel in the hipster neighbourhood of North Park, which feels like stepping into Hollywood’s glamorous past. This property has a lot for the senses to take in – ranging from the dimly lit bar with velvet-textured tapestry and leopard-print sofas to the red neon signs leading to its restaurants. From the vibrant Mexican Talavera folk art in the bathrooms to the flamboyant (somewhat gothic) wallpaper all around, the hotel’s restoration is a nod to the 1950s. Around the property’s impressive swimming pool it feels like a tropical garden, while a restored altar from a decommissioned church in Mexico forms the backdrop of its restaurant, Quixote, which serves top-notch Oaxacan fare.