The greatest puffin spotting experience in England and how to book it

Thankfully, in spring 2024, the archipelago was deemed free of infection and these much-loved voyages relaunched from the port of Seahouses – the gateway to these islands. On selected trips to Inner Farne, the main island, visitors can follow a boardwalk to the chapel of St Cuthbert, first built in the 1300s in honour of the revered 7th-century saint. They can also sail beside Longstone Island where local heroine, Grace Darling and her lighthouse keeper father, William, helped rescue survivors of the 1838 Forfarshire shipwreck.

Staple Island remains closed to visitors, yet most boat trips get close enough to view the seabird colonies that cling to these millennia-old sills of rock. Hearing the islands’ history from the captain, as seals loaf on the rocks around us, makes for a soul-stirring experience.

“My great grandfather would take private groups out to the islands in between fishing,” William explains, “but it was my father Billy (who the business is now named after) who really saw the potential as he was passionate about the islands and their wildlife. I’ve spent all of my life around them and to be able to share this with others is a joy.”

BOUNCING BACK

While on the boat, I hear that had I been here a day earlier, I might have caught sight of a minke whale or a “stinky minke”, as some call them due to their pungent breath. And while tern numbers are still low, puffin numbers are looking “pretty solid”. Which is why, even at the end of July, I’m eyeballing those last few “Tommy Noddies” before they return to the Northern Atlantic. It seems the wildlife – and tourism – here, is bouncing back.

“Visitors are drawn to Northumberland for its unspoilt landscapes, stunning coastline and rich heritage attractions,” says Andrew Fox, chair of Visit Northumberland.

“The Northumberland visitor economy has seen continued, strong, year-on-year growth, welcoming 10.12 million visitors in 2023, with a 2.7% increase in day visitors in comparison to 2022. This is attributed to new world-class visitor attractions such as Ad Gefrin, and a growth in events such as the Alnwick Winter Light Trail.”

Ad Gefrin opened in Wooler last year, some 15 miles inland. Its Anglo-Saxon Museum and distillery are sure to go down well with history and whisky lovers. The market town of Alnwick, meanwhile, is known for the one-of-a-kind Alnwick Garden, with its dancing fountains and, come winter – the beautiful light displays. Beside it, visitors can explore the 1,000-year-old Alnwick Castle of Harry Potter fame.

Striding across empty beaches is essential for anyone visiting this region. So, in the quaint village of Alnmouth, I base myself at The Whittling House, a stylish boutique hotel bookable via independent tour operator Osprey Holidays. It serves fantastic food and is minutes away from Alnmouth’s vast, biscuit-coloured bay. I kick off my shoes and wade through the shallowest section of the Aln estuary to reach St Cuthbert’s Cross – a hilltop spot that affords fabulous views across the village and surrounding salt marshes.

My last stop is Lindisfarne, where visitors can marvel at one of the region’s most important castles and the ruins of the 7th-century priory. It’s home to the shrine of St Cuthbert which, for centuries, has attracted pilgrims who cross the island’s surrounding mudflats at low tide. It’s also possible to drive along the causeway – just remind clients to check safe crossing times, and to travel before high tide.

Before I leave this peaceful spot behind, something catches my eye: a wooden bench bookended by masterfully carved puffin and seal figures. It’s beautiful and a reminder that many things will change through history. But the flow of these wildlife species, in and out of these waters, will hopefully continue and puffins will return to these islands for many years to come.

Book it: Osprey Holidays can tailor-make a two-night stay at the Whittling House, Alnmouth, based on two adults sharing on a B&B basis, from £215pp, travelling from 24 February 2025. This includes a 1.5-hour Grey Seal Cruise with Seabirds, from Seahouses Harbour, with Bobby Shiel’s Boat Trips (NB, puffins nest on the Farne Islands from May till the end of July); ospreyholidays.com, farne-islands.com