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The poetic charm of the ‘Clapham Junction of South Asia’

27 Jan 2025by Rashmi Narayan

With Jules Verne reporting a sharp increase in bookings for Sri Lanka, our writer gives a taste of what to expect on the operator’s top-selling Highlights of Sri Lanka tour

Rashmi enjoys the views of Tea Country from the Lipton Seat © Rashmi Narayan

It was Sri Lankan-British author Romesh Gunesekera who once said that everybody loves the island of his birth at some level, adding: “Sri Lanka is a very special island that travellers, from Sinbad to Marco Polo, dreamed about. A place where the contours of the land itself forms a kind of sinewy poetry.”

I find his words come into my mind, as we begin our descent and the teardrop island’s west coast magically unfolds through the plane window.

“I hope you like coconut, as you’ll find this in all our dishes,” a fellow passenger and Sri Lankan resident says to me, as I gaze at waves of cerulean waters merging with swathes of coconut tree plantations.

As I exit the aircraft, I’m greeted with the phrase “ayubowan” by the air hostess, which she says while placing her palms together. “Does it mean thank you?” I ask. “No, it’s a greeting that we locals use which translates to wishing you a long life.” As we exchange smiles, I’m already captivated by the mannerisms here.

Outside, I meet our affable guide Bernard Machado from Jules Verne. He will be with us throughout our tour, which we take in a comfortable minivan with air conditioning and WiFi. As a native who comes from the southern suburbs of Colombo, Bernard advises that the country is still largely cash only, and it would be wise to head to the ATM in the airport to withdraw enough spending money to last a week. I’m already surprised how budget-friendly this island is, akin to that of its neighbours like Indonesia and Thailand.

“Geographically, I’d like to believe that Sri Lanka is the Clapham Junction of South Asia, where the south meets the east. We are hoping to be the next Macau though, as we have a surge in casinos near Colombo that are flocked by many tourists from India and China,” he tells me as we head north east, towards the inland town of Habarana.

On the traffic-free expressway, we drive past languid stray dogs, acres of lush rice paddy fields, coconut groves, mango orchards. Within an hour, we come to a brief halt as we spot a majestic elephant crossing the road with a mahout. “Only orphaned or injured elephants are permitted to be domesticated and they go back to into the wild once they’re fully grown or have fully recovered,” Bernard says. “There is human-elephant conflict where elephants turn to farm produce to survive, especially during a drought, but farmers are now trying to cultivate crops that elephants don’t like such as citrus fruits.”

Sigiriya rock fortress

Cultural Triangle highlights

Staying three nights at Habarana Village by Cinnamon Resorts, we take day trips to Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle – all of which are a short drive away. After a good night’s rest, we start with Sigirya, the grand, towering rock fortress, south of Habarana.

As we ascend the 1,200 steps to reach the top of the monolith, we encounter chirpy jungle babbler birds and curious tawny furred macaques. Despite starting our hike early in the morning, humidity levels are high, but all our exertions are worth the effort as we are rewarded with outstanding views of the lush surrounding jungle and hills at the summit. Our guide explains the dark past of fortress, including the tale of King Kasiappa, who overthrew his father and then took his own life, and we admire the frescoes on the western wall and the impressive irrigation system.

The next day we head to the ancient capital city of Polonnaruwa to explore the ruins of the Chola and Sinhalese Dynasties. While we are amazed by the intricate carvings on the monuments, the magnum opus here is Rankoth Vehera, a colossal stupa standing about 50 metres tall. Built in the 12th century by Sinhalese king Nissanka Malla, it is a testament to Buddhist heritage.

More awe-inspiring sites await us further south of Habarana at the cave temples of Dambulla, where Sigirya’s grand rock is visible from a distance. We stand in silence, admiring the five, beautifully preserved sanctuaries, and spot more than 100 intricately painted walls depicting the life of Buddha.

Venturing further in the city of Kandy, the air is thick with the aroma of incense at the sacred pilgrimage site – The Temple of the Tooth, also known as Sri Dalada Maligawa. Here, it is believed that the sacred tooth of Gautama Buddha was in Kalinga, India and was smuggled back to Sri Lanka by Princess Hemamala in the 4th century.

Rankoth Vehera – a stupa located in the ancient city of Polonnaruwa © Rashmi Narayan

Spice island

A guided tour through Ranweli Spice Garden, near the city of Kandy sees amiable guide Dinusha Wanniarachchi (or Dinu for short) showcasing Sri Lanka’s best spices such as true cinnamon (explaining its authenticity and how it differs greatly from cassia bark), black pepper, Asian vanilla, ginger, cardamom and clove. Dinu says people are often unaware that spices can have multiple health benefits, making them the primary source of treating ailments.

This is followed by a complimentary head massage and a cooking demonstration of how to make okra curry. I help chop the okra and our meal is served on a rustic table adjacent to the spice garden. It’s a peaceful spot overlooking lush rice fields where men and women are busy at work. We also have the opportunity to try a range of delicacies such as stir-fried vegetables, crispy lentil snacks and coconut-based desserts.

A journey by rail

The next leg of our expedition is a train ride from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya – dubbed as Sri Lanka’s ‘Little England’. On this three-hour journey, the landscape changes from sleepy small towns to dramatic cliffs, cloaked by verdant tea plantations and dotted with eucalyptus and acacia trees. Along the way, we observe stunning waterfalls and low-lying clouds, hugging the mountain tops.

While it’s true that parts of this itinerary are not too different to what many tour operators offer – Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle is a well-trodden path – the Jules Verne difference is the inclusion of additional, more exclusive experiences. One in particular that stands out takes place after we disembark the train – when we enjoy a late lunch admiring the panoramic views of the verdant hills of Nuwara Eliya from the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Sackville, a restaurant attached to the Golden Ridge Hotel.

This is quickly followed by another – the next morning we set off uphill for an hour, with a packed breakfast, for a scenic drive passing tea plantations to the Lipton Seat. Here we are rewarded with incredible views of the Haputale Mountain Range and Bernard talks about the eponymous tea from Sir Thomas Lipton and his lasting legacy in the country. It’s early enough in the day that we are the only ones here with no other tourists in sight, and watching the sunrise through the clouds is truly spectacular. This is a popular spot but because it’s isolated, the crowds tend to trickle in later in the day and stay for the sunset.

After this, from the town of Udawalawa, we go on a safari. Luck is on our side as we spot four leaf clovers, dancing peacocks, striking Sri Lankan hornbills and a herd of elephants. Our good-humoured guide Suresh Anuruddha from Niluka Safari also takes us on an impromptu swamp tour, where we see five crocodiles up close.

Rashmi enjoys the scenic train ride between Kandy and Nuwara Eliya © Rashmi Narayan

Coastal ending

Our final leg of the trip is further south, where we leave the forests of Sri Lanka and reach the seaside town of Galle with its grand lighthouse and expansive fort. The coastal path along Galle is peppered with sweet-scented frangipani trees and stilt fishermen. “They are just posing for visitors and are not actually fishing. If you take photos of them, they will approach you for money in return,” warns Bernard.

Along with Galle’s fascinating history where it was occupied by the Portuguese, Dutch and British between the 16th and the 20th centuries, the town is also excellent for shopping, particularly for festive local Raksha masks.

I spend my final evening in Sri Lanka, taking a swim in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean, and watching a spectacular sunset. There’s something timeless and alluring about this beautiful island and when you combine that with the country’s resilience and big-hearted locals, it really does feel like a land that was made to inspire poetry.

Book it: Jules Verne offers the eight-night Highlights of Sri Lanka tour from £2,245pp departing on 7 March, 12 October and 20 November in 2025. Price includes return flights through Sri Lankan Airlines from Heathrow as well as accommodation, guides, visits to cultural attractions, local transport, daily breakfast, one lunch and two dinners; vjv.com

Selling tips

Laura Kelly – head of partnerships at Jules Verne, says, “We are thrilled that Sri Lanka is one of our top performing destinations, and it’s easy to see why: ancient ruins, verdant jungle, national parks, and tea plantations offer travellers wonderful discovery filled days. The beaches, incredible hospitality and fabulous food certainly don’t hurt!”

In 2024 we carried three times as many travellers as the previous year, and this pattern continues into 2025. We are already up 30%, and we project 70% growth year-on-year.
Many of departures for 2025 are full and we have had to add six extra dates to our most popular tours; Highlights of Sri Lanka and Splendours of Sri Lanka. Looking ahead, 2026 is on sale and we are excited to be introducing dedicated solo departures to meet with the demand.
Our small group tours, the very best way to explore the island, attract travellers aged 55+ with a heavy accent on single travellers.
Sri Lanka's main touring season runs late October to March.