A debut Pride, and a seismic shift for a tropical idyll

The joyful celebrations belie the sheer determination the LGBTQ+ community and its supporters have shown to decriminalise homosexuality. An archaic law, which specifically made it illegal for same-sex male relationships, was removed from the Crimes Act on 15 April 2023 by Prime Minister Mark Brown, who tweeted it was a “historic day to stomp out discrimination of the LGBT community in our society”.

The victory was the culmination of a decade-long campaign in the face of opposition from the Protestant Church, which is still woven through the fabric of island society, more than two centuries after Reverend John Williams of the London Missionary Society brought Christianity to the archipelago in 1821.

But the irony is that many Cook Islanders and incomers have been openly ‘out’ in same-sex relationships for many years and are already accepted. These include Karla Eggelton, who is both CEO of Cook Islands Tourism Corporation and outgoing president of Pride Cook Islands.

Eggelton makes an emotional speech, saying: “We have shown leadership as a nation in ensuring the equity and rights of all people are placed centre stage. This week will celebrate change and the beauty of embracing diversity.”

Respectful of maintaining harmony between the roughly 15,000 inhabitants across the island country (faces quickly become familiar), the first Anuanua is treading softly. Other events include a screening of Prayers for Bobby, starring Sigourney Weaver as a devout Christian mother who fights to ‘cure’ her gay son, and a hotly contested dance-off to be crowned Miss Thunderhips 2024. On this raucous night, we join locals and tourists sitting side by side to cheer on the six dancers, some representing the LGBTQ+ community, enjoying food prepared by the church; a subtle signal that it is coming round to the changing status quo.

WELCOME TO PARADISE

The Cook Islands – which gained independence from New Zealand in 1965 – has a whole rainbow of characteristics that we are lucky to experience over the coming days. Our focus is on the biggest island Rarotonga – or Raro as the locals call it – and one of its charming smaller neighbours, Aitutaki, a popular choice for honeymooners.

The mission to reach the islands from the UK, typically via Sydney, means the tropical destination often goes under the radar for agents searching for paradise-style vacations, or it is sold as part of a twin-centre itinerary with either Australia or New Zealand. Cook Islands Tourism Corporation figures show that in 2022/2023, the European market accounted for 4,092 arrivals, compared to the top market of New Zealand with 103,648 visitors and the second-strongest market of Australia with 14,396 inbound passengers.

Pristine white sand beaches and translucent azure ocean are standard across the islands, as are the dramatic ridges and mountain peaks forged by ancient volcanic activity. A strong sell to clients is also the scuba diving opportunities: all 15 islands are encircled by coral reefs that are in healthy shape, according to recent scientific investigations.

Official estimates suggest around 1,500 species call the waters around the Cooks home, and the two seasoned divers in our group are certainly impressed with the wealth of diverse marine life they spy during a dive with Dive Aitutaki. They emerge from the waves with Go-Pro footage of huge green sea turtles gliding peacefully through the depths, native fish such as clownfish and giant trevally flitting around the coral structures and ginormous clams lodged on rocks.

Cruises such as Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes offer a great day out for families and gentler snorkelling opportunities. We jump onboard a glass-bottomed boat at Muri Beach, a busy Raro hub, and head out into the ocean with fellow passengers including Kiwis and Australians, passing Castaway-esque spits of land, for a sun-soaked adventure.

After tucking into lunch of delicious fresh yellowfin tuna (mahi mahi is another fish found in abundance here) and curried papaya, ‘Captain Fabulous’ and other captains take to the open-air stage to demonstrate coconut husking and the highly entertaining ‘100 ways to tie a sarong’ or ‘pareo’ as the locals call it. We are seated close to the band, No Strings Attached, who ad-lib throughout, with risque but family-friendly lyrics.

We wrap up our incredible time on the islands by pulling on our glad rags for the final Pride event, the Anuanua Music Gay Out. The DJ has been pumping out tunes since 1pm at beachside Vaiana’s Bar and as the sun sets, we join the throng of islanders, assorted Miss Thunderhips contestants and tourists throwing shapes to a remix of Village People’s YMCA. It’s the perfect moment of joy, unity and acceptance – Anuanua’s work here is done.

Book it: If Only Travel offers tailormade packages starting from £5,590pp, based on two sharing for a 12-night trip, including four nights in Sydney, four nights in Little Polynesian Resort, Rarotonga and four nights in Pacific Resort, Aitutaki. All international and internal flights included, departing London on 2 October 2024; ifonly.net. Book excursions with Dive Aitutaki diveaitutaki.com and Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes captaintamas.com