‘A Rhine cruise in the bleak midwinter? You've got to be joking...’
Preparing to endure – not enjoy – a January river cruise from Amsterdam to Basel, our writer was happy to be proved wrong when she experienced all the advantages of travelling at this unconventional time
If I’m honest, the prospect of cruising through the heart of Europe along the Rhine in early January doesn’t hold much appeal and I’m not really looking forward to it.
I envisage gloomy days of rain and chill without the welcoming warmth of Christmas markets, and can’t help wishing I am jetting off somewhere toastier and more glamorous.
But after spending a week sailing from Amsterdam to Basel through the glorious scenery of the Unesco-protected Rhine Gorge, driving through the snow-covered hills of Germany’s Black Forest and walking along refreshingly uncrowded streets through some of the continent’s most historic cities, I am pleasantly surprised at how much I enjoy it.
Admittedly, when I arrive at Viking longship Viking Tialfi in Amsterdam under black skies and torrential rain, first signs are not good. But the deluge doesn’t last and as I walk into the city, the vibrant mood and festive lights lift my spirits.
During this sailing I experience the extremes of weather, from mild and dull conditions to freezing temperatures, but they don’t spoil my enjoyment. In fact, the winter sunshine showcases these riverside towns beautifully, even if sub-zero conditions can make walking tours rather glacial.
But that is nothing a warm hot chocolate can’t cure in one of the sleepy coffee shops where the absence of visitors means it is always easy to find a seat – and that is the crux of this cruise.
Having last sailed this route during a summer heatwave in 2022, everywhere we’d stopped had been jam-packed with visitors. This time, it is the opposite with no trace of the tourist hordes that normally swamp these hot spots.
Aside from Amsterdam, in every place we stop our group appears to be the only tourists in town, even in Cologne and Strasbourg, which during the popular summer and Christmas market seasons are full to bursting.
The cobbled streets of Strasbourg’s Petite France district are wonderfully deserted and there is barely a queue to enter the city’s beautiful Gothic Notre-Dame Cathedral, with just a handful of visitors waiting to have bags checked by security staff.
More low season advantages
Even though most shops and tourist attractions are open, there is a distinctly out-of-season feel, which some people may not like, though I relish the local flavour this gives of a more authentic taste of everyday life normally not evident.
Another bonus of travelling at this time is cheaper rates – and better availability – of air seats and hotels. This is something that has attracted many of the Americans on this cruise, who account for nearly 85 per cent of passengers, with Brits, Australians and Canadians making up the remainder.
However, West Sussex couple Tracey and Andy Kenyon tell me one of their main draws is the timing of the cruise so early in January.
“We wanted to be away at this time and thought it would be really nice after Christmas,” says Tracey. “After being with the family, this is something for us to do together, to get away. Cruising at this time has been great as it’s been so quiet and Strasbourg is lovely.”
Viking Tialfi cruise director Diana Van Der Tuuk says the lack of crowds is the main advantage of travelling so early in the year, making it easy to access attractions. She even manages to book clients into Amsterdam’s notoriously-busy Anne Frank House with just a few days’ notice, when reservations normally need to be made weeks in advance.
Another less obvious benefit of being out of season is the absence of pickpockets who plague popular tourist haunts at busier times.
“Strasbourg is a particular example where pickpocketing is not such an issue now, whereas in summer it is horrendous and last year was the worst ever,” she adds.
Van Der Tuuk says Viking have specifically picked itinerary stops that don’t close down in the New Year and still have life to them, with shops and attractions remaining open.
She adds that there are no greater challenges cruising the Rhine at the height of winter compared with other times. If anything, it is easier as the absence of other cruise ships means Viking Tialfi can bag the best docking spots and avoid double-docking scenarios when ships moor up alongside each other.
An industry trend
While the debut of Viking’s new Treasures of the Rhine departures in January and February marked a first for one of the industry giants, it was German-based boutique line Viva Cruises that set the ball rolling in 2022 with sailings from January to March along the Rhine and Dutch and Belgian waterways.
Chief executive Andrea Kruse says the company was proud to have been the first river line operating year-round and these themed sailings have performed extremely well.
“Our occupancy rate is currently 80 per cent, with bookings still coming in for February and March as many guests want to travel in this period,” she explains.
AmaWaterways has also brought forward the start of its season from March to February, with managing director Jamie Loizou hailing the “unique perspective and exceptional value for money” of these sailings.
“February’s departures are proving very popular and have already been added to the programme for 2025,” he says. “Although January doesn’t feature within the programme, that doesn’t mean it won’t be offered in future.”
A-Rosa is another to have made moves into the winter period by extending its 2023 season to the end of January 2024 and bringing forward the start of its 2024 schedule by three weeks to February 29.
UK and Ireland managing director Lucia Rowe says the line’s largest ship, A-Rosa Sena, has proven the most popular for early- and late-season sailings as it offers more onboard facilities, including a gym and spa.
As for Viking, its sailings for winter 2024 are sold out. It has yet to release dates and prices for next year, though head of UK sales Neil Barclay says the line is seeing increased demand from British guests for shoulder seasons.
I can understand why. Amid the modern-day curse of overtourism, there’s nothing like the luxury of uncrowded streets in Europe’s most celebrated cities. I’d return in an instant.
Book it: A four-night Middle Rhine Wellness Trip with Viva Cruises has several departures in February and March with prices from £595pp cruise-only based on a February 20 sailing. The round-trip Frankfurt voyage includes calls at Koblenz, Cologne and Rudesheim; viva-cruises.com
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