On a visit to the Bahamas to celebrate the launch of a new Virgin Atlantic route, Will Payne experiences standout hotels, top-notch cuisine and an array of outdoor activities
My heart pounds as a three-metre-long zebra shark swims up to my leg and has a sniff before flicking its tail and darting off in the other direction. I look to my companions, who are just as shocked as I am.
"Don’t worry, they can sense fear but they don’t know what it means," our tour guide jokes as he sees the whites of my eyes widen through my misty goggles.
The Bahamas has tons to offer, but this Lost Ruins of Atlantis snorkel tour at The Cove Atlantis Hotel’s in-house aquarium, which leaves me in a strange state of pure excitement and raw fear, is definitely my highlight.
I’m in Nassau with Virgin Atlantic to celebrate the airline’s new twice-weekly route from Heathrow, which launched on 20 November 2021.
Laura Brander, Virgin Atlantic’s vice-president of communications, who I catch up with onboard the flight, says the new route was launched thanks to a growing increase in customer demand to travel once more.
"It feels incredible to be back. We have spent the last 20 months proving we have what it takes to get back onboard,” she says, adding: "We’re seeing really, really strong bookings from those wanting to visit friends and relatives, but also for premium leisure, which is where the new route comes in to play."
For part of our trip we stay at the aforementioned Cove at Atlantis, one of the most extravagant resorts the islands have to offer.
The view from the 16th floor of my suite is stunning, and the room is kitted out with a large king-size bed, flat-screen TV, lounge area, good-sized balcony and desk. There’s also a spacious bathroom with his and hers sinks, walk-in shower and bath.
Atlantis has recently refurbished a range of rooms in the Imperial Club of its Royal East and Royal West towers, and has further plans to upgrade its Royal suites this year.
The resort is packed to the rafters with activities and features for guests to sample, including a lazy river, the underground aquarium where I have my memorable zebra shark encounter, private cabanas with complimentary butler service and a 140-acre waterpark.
After some downtime, it’s time for a tour of Virgin Voyages’ Scarlet Lady, led by Shane Riley, the cruise line’s vice-president of sales for the UK and Australia, who says the line’s focus for the trade is “helping and reminding them what Virgin Voyages stands for” after many months of restrictions.
“A lot of people [working in travel and hospitality] have been on furlough for a long time, so it’s our job and responsibility to get them back up to speed,” he adds. “There’s definitely a lot in the works – Valiant Lady will be sailing in the UK from March to May, and that’s another unique opportunity to get some trade onboard.”
A key selling point of Scarlet Lady is its range of eateries – there are 20 all-inclusive restaurants onboard, giving guests more than enough choice. Then there’s the Manor Nightclub, the ship’s onboard disco, with its glitzy entrance, stylish interior and plenty of tunes to entice clients on to the dancefloor.
Back on dry land, we head for dinner at Margaritaville Beach Resort Nassau, which launched in July. It boasts 11 restaurants and bars, a spa, waterpark, kids’ club, marina and private beach, as well as 300 rooms and 68 suites.
After some obligatory margaritas, we settle down at JWB Prime Steak and Seafood restaurant. I choose the surf and turf, which is utterly divine and makes the overall dining experience one to remember.
The next day I take a tour of Nassau, hosted by the Bahamas Tourist Office. Our first stop is the Rum Cake Factory, where proprietor George Bates’ famous delicacy is recognised by the state as the “Official Rum Cake of the Bahamas”.
We sample a selection of treats before heading off for a drink in local bar Oh Andros, situated on the bay.
Hearing the waves lapping on the shore as I sip on Kalik, a local beer, will live long in my memory.
Next we head to the John Watlings rum distillery for a tour of the building, which features in several scenes from Bond film Casino Royale. We peer over the edge of the main factory, where team members are hand-bottling and labelling the rum, which is produced using sugar cane molasses sourced from across the Caribbean.
Our next and final stop is Graycliff Hotel and Resort, a historic mansion that dates back to the 18th century and is home to the fourth-largest wine cellar in the world.
This historic Mississippi-style manor house has it all – a cigar factory, wine distillery, chocolate factory, swimming pool, the huge wine cellar and a selection of bars and restaurants. Based in the heart of Nassau and just a short trip from Lynden Pindling airport, it is definitely worth a visit.
Its Giotto Cafe is set to reopen after undergoing renovations in winter 2022.
We also stay at the Grand Hyatt Baha Mar Hotel and Resort, where we sample no less than three restaurants during one dinner.
At Chinese option Shuang Ba, a platter of oriental delights takes my taste buds on a journey of sweet, savoury and spice. It’s followed by a spiced cauliflower and braised steak main at Mexican restaurant Costa, and topped off with an experimental dessert selection at Japanese restaurant Katsuya, which includes a sublime flaming chocolate dome that melts away to reveal a pod of ice cream.
The resort is also kitted out with a huge casino, 2,200 rooms and a spa, plus a golf course designed by the legendary Jack Nicklaus.
Both hotels I stay at are out of this world, but Baha Mar is more suited to guests over the age of 18, couples or large groups of friends due to its focus on nightlife – including an enormous casino plus a raft of bars and restaurants.
Meanwhile, the Atlantis is perfect for families thanks to its themed pools and entertainment, with a range of eateries that younger guests can enjoy.
From Virgin Atlantic’s check-in to the cultural tours of the Bahamas, I feel at home, safe, happy and free throughout this trip.
The Bahamas is well and truly open for visitors, and Virgin Atlantic’s new route gives travellers the opportunity to sample some of the many attractions, as well as the striking beauty, that the Bahamas have to offer.
Book it: Caribtours offers seven nights at The Cove Atlantis followed by seven nights at the Grand Hyatt Baha Mar from £5,119pp, based on two sharing, departing 12 March. Includes return flights with Virgin Atlantic, transfers and access to a UK airport lounge. caribtours.co.uk; bahamas.com; virginatlantic.com
Smarter: Scarlet Lady has a limited number of cabins available for guests with special needs or reduced mobility. Guests are advised to book early and specify all accommodation requirements to the line’s Sailor Services Crew.
Better: Virgin Atlantic currently sells 60% of its product through the trade and the airline has plans to host trade roadshows in conjunction with Virgin Voyages this year for its agent partners.
Fairer: In October 2021, Virgin Atlantic joined a new Aviation Climate Taskforce (ACT) and announced interim targets to reduce carbon emissions on the path to achieving “net zero” by 2050.