Clients loved Venice? Then this should be their next Italian holiday...

For clients who have been to Venice before, this cruise on Italy’s Venetian Lagoon, River Po and Canal Bianco between Venice and the lakeside city of Mantua offers plenty in the way of quintessential Italian experiences. With its cultural insights into Renaissance, Roman, Etruscan and Byzantine influences, it should also hold appeal for those who have explored the historical cities of Sienna, Lucca, Florence, Bologna or Turin.

These little-known Italian waterways are studded with unsung cultural gems – among them the ancient city walls, moated castle and cathedral of Ferrara and Mantua’s 500-room Palazzo Ducale (medieval palace). Designed as a “city palace” complete with roads, an adjoining castle and a suspended garden, it is second only to the Vatican in terms of its size and is packed with frescoed rooms and precious paintings.

As memorable as the waterfront Renaissance cities are the lagoon islands and fishing villages of the Veneto and the friendly and informal atmosphere onboard La Bella Vita.

Most passengers on the 20-passenger vessel are new to barge cruising – as am I – and have chosen it for the flexibility afforded by its size. Passenger requests for more free time ashore, for example, are readily accommodated. An all-Italian crew, including our guide Ilaria and mealtime hosts Isabella and Francesca, offer warm, genuine hospitality.

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

On our second evening, after a morning exploring the Doge’s Palace in Venice, we sail to Pellestrina, a long narrow barrier island sandwiched between the lagoon and the Adriatic. La Bella Vita is moored at the fishing village of San Pietro de Volta, where I wheel one of the barge’s bicycles ashore and follow the lagoon for a couple of miles, cycling past brightly painted houses and well-tended gardens before crossing the road to look at a wild strip of beach.

I rendezvous with the group at Bar Gelateria Laguna, where aperitifs and home-made ice cream scooped out of cylindrical metal churns are on Rudi. Owner Alessandra sets cicchetti (Venetian bar snacks) out on waterfront tables as passengers get to know one another while watching the sunset over the lagoon.

Among the American, Australian and British travellers onboard are couples and two groups of friends who have chosen to holiday together in more intimate surroundings. Confident solo travellers should feel comfortable onboard. “Our cruises are ideal for solo travellers because the vessels’ small number of guests ensure they are never ‘lost in the crowd,’” says Derek Banks, managing director of European Waterways.

With 10 seats set around two long tables, mealtimes take on a dinner-party vibe (this won’t suit everyone). Chef Andrea serves delicious, well-portioned gourmet cuisine and Isabella and Francesca explain the provenance of every Italian wine and cheese.

Guided excursions of palaces, museums and cities’ historical hearts are included in the fare, along with a private wine tasting at the countryside cellars of Villa Widmann Borletti.

One morning, mooring just outside the small waterfront city of Chioggia, we transfer to a bright red bragozzo, a traditional fishing boat converted to a passenger vessel, which drops us at bustling Piazza Vigo. Chioggia is often called “little Venice” but skipper Marco says, “Chioggia is the real Venice.” He may have a point. The city is 500 years older than Venice and has one of the world’s oldest working clocks and artworks by Vittore Carpaccio and Tintoretto, which can be found in the island Church of San Domenico. 

I climb the bell tower of Sant’Andrea where a small museum tells the story of its Torre Dell’orologio. Both Salisbury and Chioggia claim to have the oldest working clocks in the world. The mechanics of the medieval clock are almost as impressive as the views over the canals, the arrow-straight streets and the Adriatic Sea, which gave Chioggia its wealth – in the form of its prized sal clugiae (salt).

TASTE THE DIFFERENCE

That evening, from a mooring in the Po Delta Park, we’re driven to dinner at Villa Ca’Zen, a 17th-century hunting lodge turned agriturismo, and one of Lord Byron’s romantic haunts. We are welcomed by the owner, Maria, who serves prosecco in a garden speckled by fairy lights and gives us a tour of the gardens and chapel.

Regional specialities including mussels, clams, truffles, pumpkin, radicchio and asparagus make their way onto the onboard menus. In the Po delta’s fertile river valley grows the short grain carnaroli rice, used for risotto. Andrea conjures mussel croquettes, asparagus and seabass lasagne, smoked swordfish, a radicchio risotto and a surprisingly good torta cioxota (radicchio cake).

The marshes and wetlands of the delta provide a habitat for nesting and migrating birds including greater flamingos, marsh warblers, terns, spoonbills, white stalks, marsh harriers, curlews, purple heron and seasonal avocets.

On our final day I’m on deck bang on 7am. La Bella Vita is moored in the Mincio Valley. The wetlands here are home to great-crested grebes, reed buntings, kingfishers and the rare purple heron. Storks and swans peck at pancakes of lilies and carp bounce out of the water. Aft, through a veil of mist, October’s morning light floods the river valley. That’s the picture.

Book it: European Waterways sells a four-night Italy – Venice and the Po Valley hotel barge cruise departing 2 April from £3,290pp including wine, open bar, all excursions and local transfers. The operator is waiving the single supplement on La Bella Vita’s 16 April departure. europeanwaterways.com