Exploring nature, cuisine and culture in Ecuador

My twin-centre trip to Ecuador’s coastal lowlands and capital Quito wasn’t designed around nature, yet it’s practically impossible to avoid. At Hacienda la Danesa – a working dairy farm home to 200 Swiss cows, several dozen pinto quarter horses, plus free-roaming guinea fowl and chickens – river tubing is just one of the draws. Guests can milk the cows that provide the hacienda with fresh milk, cuajada cheese and dulce de leche (a moreish, creamy caramel that’s often found on South American breakfast tables).

Or your more adventurous clients might prefer an afternoon spent fatbiking through La Danesa’s 500 acres of teak forest, learning the art of beekeeping, or horse-riding with a local vaquero (cowboy). Clients with a sweet tooth can take a “bean to bar” workshop, which begins on the property’s 250-acre plantation of cacao trees. From plucking a ripe pod straight from the tree to roasting, grinding and tempering the beans, guests walk away with a handmade, single-origin chocolate bar.

Don’t let the word “farm” put your clients off either: this is no bare-bones outpost. Ecuador’s countryside is laced with haciendas – beautiful, historic estates built by Spanish colonists, which are typically family-run and have been restored to their former glory. The name La Danesa refers to the Danish family that has owned and run this particular farm for the past 60 years. The original homestead dates back to 1860, but it only opened its doors to overnight guests two years ago. And with just six immaculately designed rooms onsite, it cultivates a real sense of intimacy.

Even in Ecuador’s concrete capital there’s greenery to be found, if visitors know where to look. The TeleferiQo gondola, for example, is one of the world’s highest aerial rides, reaching a giddying 4,100 metres above sea level.

From the cool summit, on the active volcano of Pichincha, you can eye the urban sprawl that spills out of the valley and creeps up surrounding mountainsides, gradually giving way to nothing but verdant slopes topped with wispy white clouds. On a clear day, the so-called “Avenue of Volcanoes” can be seen in all its snow-capped glory on the other side of the valley.

Quito has several more superlative attractions to its name. The world’s highest capital, it was the first city in the world to be named a Unesco World Heritage Site. Its old town is one of Latin America’s best-preserved Spanish colonial cities and is awash with baroque churches, cobbled streets and wide squares lined with cafes and restaurants.

Although Ecuador has made great strides in improving public safety, petty crime remains a problem in some areas of the old town, and English isn’t always widely spoken, so it pays to book your clients onto organised tours. Abercrombie & Kent can work a number of exclusive day trips into an itinerary including weaving your own Panama hat (contrary to popular belief, it’s an Ecuadorian creation) churning your own helado de paila (a typical, fruity sorbet), honey-tasting in Quito’s botanical gardens, or visiting the atelier of a local artist.

It’s easy to emulate the small scale of the hacienda in the big city too. At cosy Villa Colonna in Quito’s historic centre, there are just six rooms and uber-personal service from manager Fabrice, who is only too happy to book taxis, make restaurant reservations, or even take care of laundry.

Formerly the Turkish embassy, this boutique hotel is an oasis in the city. All the furniture – mirrored candelabras, framed botanical prints, stained glass lampshades – has been imported from Europe, and my suite immediately feels like home. Breakfast is taken around the kitchen dining table, with guests sharing tales of their Ecuadorian adventures. Over strong coffee and homemade pastries, we all agree there’s far more to this small Latin American country than we ever imagined before.

BOOK IT

Abercrombie & Kent offers a seven-night trip to Ecuador including three nights in Quito and four at Hacienda La Danesa from £1,900pp based on two sharing including flights, transfers, B&B accommodation and a half-day’s guiding.

abercrombiekent.co.uk

For more information visit lata.travel