‘I found coastal bliss on the west coast of America’
Surfing, whale watching and a booming craft beer industry are some of the reasons to be enticed by the Pacific Coast suntrap of San Diego, which makes the ideal bookend for a road trip
As we come in to land, numerous US Navy ships dotted around San Diego Bay catch my eye. Given my love for seafaring history, I instantly know I am going to enjoy this city.
It turns out that Naval Base San Diego is the country’s largest station on the West Coast, and the city provided inspiration for films such as Top Gun, with scenes from both movies in the franchise filmed on the sandy shores of San Diego’s Coronado Beach.
“There’s not much frowning here,” says Scott Drombowski, our guide from So Diego Tours as we walk past Little Italy’s brightly lit trattorias. Little Italy was integral to San Diego’s development in the early 20th century when Italian fishermen settled in the area after a boom in tuna fishing. “It is also one of the most sustainable cities in the USA, as most organisations, especially hotels, have a clear initiative to recycle and reduce food waste,” Scott adds, gleaming with pride.
San Diego also ranked as the country’s most expensive city in 2023, but this doesn’t appear to deter residents, who are compensated by the sunny climate and the opportunity to enjoy the great outdoors all year round.
I check into the recently renovated Lafayette Hotel in the hipster neighbourhood of North Park, which feels like stepping into Hollywood’s glamorous past. This property has a lot for the senses to take in – ranging from the dimly lit bar with velvet-textured tapestry and leopard-print sofas to the red neon signs leading to its restaurants. From the vibrant Mexican Talavera folk art in the bathrooms to the flamboyant (somewhat gothic) wallpaper all around, the hotel’s restoration is a nod to the 1950s. Around the property’s impressive swimming pool it feels like a tropical garden, while a restored altar from a decommissioned church in Mexico forms the backdrop of its restaurant, Quixote, which serves top-notch Oaxacan fare.
“Our retro bowling alley is a huge hit, and we are excited to welcome everyone to our new jazz and supper club at Lou Lou’s Jungle Room,” MarQuies Willis, director of sales and marketing at The Lafayette tells me. The sprawling ballroom has retained its charm from the 1940s with the preservation of the historic clamshell stage where Frank Sinatra was a regular act.
Adjacent to North Park is San Diego’s LGBTQ+ beating heart in Hillcrest, which is a remarkable area to explore before heading south to visit Balboa Park’s many museums. Hillcrest boasts an eclectic arts scene and one of the best farmers’ markets in the city. While admiring the vintage paraphernalia, I buy some unique hot sauces made with kombucha and habanero peppers to take home.
SPLASH AND LEARN
San Diego’s coast is also a prime spot for whale watching throughout the year. The naturalist-led excursions offered by San Diego Whale Watch range from educational and adventurous to easy-going sunset tours.
As we head out to sea, we spot an unusual number of playful dolphins, many trying to race alongside our boat, and our captain immediately says: “They are all trying to tell us something, it looks like there might be a whale somewhere in the distance.”
And sure enough, a few minutes later, we spot a female humpback whale, spouting away. She quickly performs a tail sail, as if she knows we are watching this beautiful spectacle. Throughout the boat ride, our marine biologist educates us about fascinating whale migration patterns and other species of fish that are an integral part of San Diego’s eco-system.
Back on dry land, I make my way to the idyllic, sandy expanse of Coronado. The city’s towering skyline unfolds as we cross the monumentally iconic Coronado Bridge. Approaching Hotel del Coronado, it is impossible to miss the famous red turrets belonging to this grand Victorian-style hotel, a city landmark with an impressive beachfront. There’s plenty of history within these walls, including being the location for the classic Marilyn Monroe movie Some Like It Hot. A recent major facelift has revitalised the property without spoiling that rustic charm.
After sunset, I head out for a stroll by the sea – the walkway is a trendy spot with San Diegans, many are skateboarding or relaxing around roaring beach bonfires.
URBAN ART
A drive by city officials to recognise local, talented artists is evidenced by the murals at Chicano Park. Located in Barrio Logan, beneath Coronado Bridge, the colossal paintings depict the struggle of being a Chicano in America, with their unique identity that’s neither a part of the USA or Mexico. They are symbols of what the community truly stands for, representing fundamental themes such as civil rights, migration and feminism.
Exploring nearly 80 murals on foot, I stumble upon notable local muralist and activist Marco Torero fine-tuning his latest creation. Apart from the brightly-hued patterns on the walls and pillars, what strikes me the most is the written messages, ranging from Books, not War to Brown is Beautiful.
Often dubbed the “Craft Beer Capital of America”, with more than 150 breweries, visitors are spoilt for choice when it comes to ale tasting. I opt for the leisurely pace of a walking beer tour in North Park. “The American palate mainly leans towards sweet beverages but this is changing with sour beers and stouts slowly gaining popularity,” says our enthusiastic tour guide Stefan Calvaruso, the founder of Foodelicious Tours. Covering three breweries with food pairings, Stefan tells us the craft beer industry has helped employ thousands in the city.
Surfing also runs in San Diego’s DNA, and as an amateur I can clearly see why – its blissful waters. The sea temperatures hover between 15°C and 19°C throughout the year, making the city’s beaches a dream for watersports. Signing up for a surf lesson is well worth it at the beaches in La Jolla, which embodies quintessential Californian charm with its palm trees and panoramic views of the Pacific. I have a lesson with Surf Diva whose instructors are thorough, fun and patient as they watch my numerous attempts to stand up on my surfboard and enthusiastically cheer me on when I finally manage it.
With British Airways adding a second weekly flight to San Diego from 20 April, it’ll be even easier for me to make a return visit to hone those surfing skills.
Book it: America As You Like It offers a two-week fly-drive Pacific Coast Highway itinerary that begins in San Francisco and ends with four days in San Diego, from £1,459pp based on two sharing, with return flights and car hire included; americaasyoulikeit.com
San Diego snapshot
Smarter: Combine a city stay in San Diego with day trips to nearby Joshua Tree National Park, Temecula Valley’s wine regions and the shores of Carlsbad, which rival those of La Jolla; visitcalifornia.com
Better: If you want to recommend the best tacos in San Diego, go with Lola 55 in the East Village. This industrial-chic restaurant serves gourmet tacos with authentic Mexican recipes and rightfully deserves its Bib Gourmand recognition; lola55.com
Fairer: Food waste is a major concern for the US as a majority of compostable waste ends up in landfills. Hotel del Coronado donates surplus food to Waste Not San Diego, which advocates for waste reduction, while used cooking oil is taken away to produce biodiesel; hoteldel.com
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