Indulging in Zagreb’s historical charms

Crossing the square I bump into a man and woman dressed in traditional Croatian regalia (pictured right) posing for pictures with delighted weekenders. Puskar informs me that the duo are part of the Zagreb Time Machine programme, an interactive history lesson that sees individuals in costume taking to the streets. Remind your clients to look out for the friendly band who’ll strike up an upbeat medley before moving on to another popular tourist area.

Ilica is the longest street in Lower Town and contains many of Zagreb’s best shops. Clients visiting in summer can take advantage of the tram service running the length of the road should they want some air conditioned respite. It’s worth noting that most shops close on Sundays apart from the city’s 20 green markets.

Fans of coffee should explore Tkalciceva street, home to the highest concentration of cafes in the city – and plenty of excellent bars too, including Agava, where I enjoy an ice cold glass of local spirit, rakija. Zagreb really can get hot, as I discover during the walking tour. Temperatures may reach 30 degrees during the peak summer season with high humidity, so recommend clients pack suitable clothing.

Next stop is Zagreb Cathedral. The Gothic-style building was originally built in the 11th century and is impressive in its eclectic design. I crane my neck upwards to look at the exquisite 105 metre-high twin bell towers adorned with religious figures and stone carvings.

“There are 35 churches in the city centre – we are a very religious nation,” laughs Puskar.

Inside the cathedral is just as impressive, with its mixture of Baroque stone fixtures and Art Nouveau floor tiles. The cathedral is steeped in history and offers clients plenty to discover. It’s important to note that women should take something to cover their knees and shoulders on entering. I’m distracted by a cacophony outside and make for the door as the city’s guard of honour troop, The Cravat Regiment, have begun to assemble in front of the building.

Established in 2010, the regiment can be spotted on Saturdays and bank holidays in various tourist hotspots across the city. It’s well worth checking out the display: the soldiers are kitted out in fur hats and long red cloaks similar to the uniform the Croats fought in during the Thirty Years’ War, which took place 1618-1648 and was considered the deadliest European religious conflict in history.

Dolac, the city’s largest green market, is a hub of activity. Looking across Ban Jelacic Square, the space is crammed with stalls selling anything from fruit and vegetables to dairy produce. I pass through the colourful stations, catching the tail end of intense bartering sessions before heading inside the market hall, where vendors are flogging their wares.

I have worked up an appetite on the morning walk, so I head to Trilogija for lunch. This charming eatery, located near the city’s Stone Gate medieval shrine, and a 10-minute walk from Dolac, is divided into two – one side is a cosy wine bar and the other is the restaurant. With more than 110 wine labels from across the world along with a frequently updated menu comprising fresh ingredients sourced from Dolac, Trilogija makes a convenient and satisfying lunch stop for those exploring the city.