'It's striking how uncommercialised these islands are'
After joining a Cook Islands Tourism fam trip to Rarotonga and Aitutaki earlier this year, Mary Carlyle, tailor-made reservations specialist at If Only, shares with us what she learnt
What were your first impressions?
I’d never been to the Cook Islands before the fam trip but it is sold by If Only, and now I’m motivated to push it that much more. The most striking thing is how uncommercialised it is. Hotels are all locally owned and managed and they have their quirks, such as chickens and hens roaming about. When you check in, staff give you a floral garland to wear and they go out of their way to help you – they’re very warm, friendly people.
The only people who can own land on the Cook Islands are those born there or their relatives – they are not allowed to sell to outsiders, so you don’t see the big hotel brands there. Nor are the restaurants particularly high-end, but they are charming and the food is beautiful.
Which hotels stood out for you?
On Rarotonga, I loved the infinity pool at Manuia Beach Resort, which looks out over the ocean to where the reef begins. We also visited Little Polynesian Resort, which is a honeymooners’ paradise. They like to put presents in rooms, such as complimentary little bottles of wine.
Tamanu Beach Resort on Aitutaki has stunning beach bungalows – you walk straight out of these on to the sand and into the sea. They’re spacious for two people but you can fit an extra person to sleep in the living room.
How was the restaurant and bar scene?
In general, Cook Islands cuisine is a mix of steaks, freshly caught fish, and tropical fruit and vegetables. I’m not generally a fish eater but for once I was quite happy to consume seafood, as it was so tender and tasty. All the food, apart from the meat, which is flown in from New Zealand, is freshly sourced. They live off the land and make everything from scratch.
Packages are generally booked on a B&B basis and you can upgrade to full-board. However, I wouldn’t recommend that – especially on Rarotonga as there are lots of restaurants to try, like Wilson’s Beach Bar & Restaurant at Castaway Resort, which has a very diverse gourmet menu and live music on a Sunday evening.
All-inclusive just isn’t a thing – the local beer is good value and it’s not a party sort of place… many hotel bars stop serving around 10pm. There is a party bus, which offers a pub crawl around Rarotonga, but even that is finished by midnight.
What did you explore on the islands?
Far from being a paradise where you simply lounge on the beach, I was surprised by the more adventurous activities available. You can do hiking tours, stopping at different places, and snacking on fresh coconut along the way. There are e-bikes for hire on Rarotonga, where it’s quite easy to explore independently, taking a picnic with you. We took a lagoon cruise with Captain Tama’s and his crew, who were like a comedy act, they made it such a fun day. Plus, the snorkelling was fantastic, with so many fish to see.
The Saturday market on Rarotonga is a must-do. They sell local products, such as jewellery and dresses, and stall holders can’t do enough for you. When I couldn’t find my size on display, they went rifling through their boxes to find the one for me.
While Rarotonga is the livelier place for families, Aitutaki is more for honeymooners. I recommend Avatea Cafe – it is family owned, serves coffee and gorgeous fusion food and it’s an enchanting space, built with shipyard containers and covered with decorations.
Is it worth the long journey to get there?
It is a mission to get to the Cook Islands, no doubt, so it’s best done in tandem with New Zealand, or for a really fun itinerary, use Hawaiian Airlines, to link Los Angeles, San Francisco, Hawaii and the Cook Islands. I can’t wait to take my 10-year-old son. It’d be a big trip but I know he’d absolutely love it.
Book it: If Only offers six nights in a beachfront bungalow at Little Polynesian Resort and four nights in a premium beachfront bungalow at Pacific Resort Aitutaki, both B&B, with NZ$50 ( 25) F&B credit per
room, per night. From £6,019pp, flying with Air New Zealand, valid until 31 March 2024; ifonly.net
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