'I've found Scandinavia's most beautiful and tranquil city break'
It’s one of Europe’s rainiest cities, with 231 days average rainfall a year, but don’t let that put your clients off, Bergen is well worth seeing, whether on a cruise, a coach tour or a city break like our writer
My mum and I have a tradition – we aim to visit a Scandinavian country each summer until we complete the set. We managed Iceland and Sweden before the pandemic forced us to hit pause on our plans. But it is Norway that has always excited me the most.
Lonely Planet has dubbed it as “one of the most beautiful countries on earth,” citing the Northern Lights and colourful Nordic fishing villages as must-see sights. Looking for an area that boasts the most stunning natural views the country has to offer, Bergen, capital of the fjords and wedged between seven mountains, seems to fit the bill. Known as the rainiest city in Europe, it has the largest port in Norway and is home to around 288,000 people.
We opt for a hotel 30 minutes outside of Bergen, Alver Hotel in Alversund, which provides the perfect Norwegian welcome. With far-reaching views of green mountains and small rivers stretching endlessly across the horizon, it’s a hub for coach tour passengers needing a good rest after a day of travel. Our two-bedroom apartment has a living room, kitchen and balcony over-looking the serene scenery. In the distance, we spot three deer standing in a line, looking up for a brief moment as they hear us turn the key in the lock before going back to their grassy meal.
Our first full day sees us get the bus from Alver to Bergen, delving into the cultural heart of the country. While the hour-long winding journey from the hotel is a bit of a trek, everything we want to see in Bergen is accessible either by bus or foot. The city is picture-postcard, especially the multi-coloured buildings of the medieval Hanseatic wharf area, Bryggen, which have been carefully restored and are now Unesco World Heritage listed. There is a relaxed atmosphere throughout the streets – a combination of visitors quietly admiring the sights and locals going about their day. Further into the town is a well-known fish market that offers a variety of traditional delicacies. As a vegetarian, I am happy to just watch.
After a leisurely few hours wandering around the port and enjoying the mix of independent and mainstream shops on offer, we take the short journey to KODE 4, home to a large permanent collection of European Modernist works most notably Klee, Picasso and Miró. I make a beeline for an exhibition entitled ‘The Queer Gaze,’ which explores portrayals of LGBT themes in art across their collection.
While the LGBT scene in Bergen is slightly lacking (there is only one known gay bar, Fincken), I find the museum’s thoughtful analysis of history through a queer lens very touching. As a queer person myself, I have always admired Norway for being an international leader in giving LGBT people the rights they deserve. The country still has a long way to go but, compared to the rest of the world, they are making real change.
Same-sex marriage has been legal in Norway since 2009 and PreP (a drug that helps prevent HIV) is available free of charge. Attitudes towards sexuality and gender expression are relaxed, and I feel safe. For those seeking more of a party atmosphere, Oslo is home to the oldest gay bar in Norway which hosts weekly karaoke nights, as well as annually hosting Oslo Pride in June.
To round off the trip, we want to admire all of Bergen from as high as possible. Visitors can reach the top of Mount Floyen via a cable car from the city centre. After a slightly wobbly ride up the side of the mountain, the view is all worth it. Those delightfully coloured houses now bright pinpricks in the distance, seeing the city in all its glory is breath-taking. We amble along the pebbly paths for about an hour, but more adventurous hikers can spend the whole day walking through the beautiful landscape.
As we leave the hotel after the short but sweet visit, our taxi driver talks about her first visit to the UK earlier in the year where she enjoyed watching ABBA Voyage. “London is so different compared to Bergen,” she says. “So busy, no time to stop.” I couldn’t help but agree. Bergen gave us time to breathe, and to enjoy the tranquil scenery that I thought I would only see on postcards.
Book it: Riviera Travel offers an eight-day Norway tour, including a visit to Bergen, from £1,719pp, which is available as a classic and a signature tour, rivieratravel.com
Contact Riviera Travel via the TTG Travel Supplier Directory
P&O Cruises offers a 12-night Norwegian Fjords cruise onboard Arcadia, departing Southampton on 15 April 2024 from £899pp; pocruises.com
Contact P&O Cruises via the TTG Travel Supplier Directory
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