Letting the good times roll on a New Orleans cruise-and-stay trip

Musical hub

France founded New Orleans in 1718 and the heart of the city is its cobblestone French Quarter, where there’s live music at every turn – in bars and cafes, on kerbs and street corners. We’d been warned about venues having an over-21s policy, but so far we’ve been allowed in everywhere and the look of wonder on Nathalie’s face as she watches the musicians play is priceless.

Famed for its annual Mardi Gras, New Orleans has an expression: “Laissez le bon temps rouler” – let the good times roll. And the next day we do just that. We breakfast on beignets (deep-fried Louisianan doughnuts), and then enjoy an eight-mile bike tour, cycling through Louis Armstrong Park and stopping in Congo Square, where African slaves gathered with their musical instruments in the 18th century and their improvisations spawned the first seeds of jazz.

Then we try red beans and rice in the French Market. “How will they make that taste good?” asks Nathalie. I’ve no idea, but somehow this local speciality is delicious. Afterwards we visit the Jazz Museum – exhibits include Louis Armstrong’s first cornet and Fats Domino’s piano – and suddenly Nathalie is itching to play. She never travels without her guitar and, by chance, we manage to find an open mic night in a bar called Buffa’s. Never have we squeezed so much into 24 hours.

We split our New Orleans stay between two centrally located hotels which are perfect for clients, whether they’re travelling with youngsters or without. The International House is closest to the cruise terminal and has free coffee and fruit for breakfast as well as a Banksy artwork in the atrium.

The Saint Hotel has a more decadent, rock-star vibe. Both are near the Mississippi, which winds through the city and defines the region. On riverside walks we hear music being played as early as 9am and watch a traditional steamboat paddle wheel past.

But there’s more to New Orleans than music. The New Orleans School of Cooking teaches us how to make local specialties gumbo (spicy stew) and jambalaya (Cajun paella). There are swamps where we spot alligators lurking in the brackish water.

And there’s twerking – a brilliant way to burn off Louisiana’s calorific cuisine. The Big Easy is home of the twerk and we try one of the free lessons put on by local singer Robin Barnes to encourage women into fitness.