Michael Palin on why the South Pole was an anticlimax

What was your first experience of Antarctic travel?

It was December 1991, while filming Pole to Pole. We went via Punta Arenas in Chile, where I made sure to touch the statue of [explorer] Magellan. It is said that if you rub his toe, you will be assured a safe return. We then flew to Patriot Hills, 600 miles from the South Pole.

How was the flight?

It was tantalising to fly over Antarctica. There’s no pollution at all. It has the cleanest atmosphere of anywhere on the planet. The landing was hazardous – on a runway of blue ice! The pilot can’t use the breaks, it has to be entirely on the engine.

What’s surprising about Antarctica?

[The rules about] going to the loo. You’re not allowed to pee near the camp, and if you do, it’s obvious as the snow turns orange. Human waste must be removed. I saw a man carrying a plastic sack with Happy Christmas written on it, to be taken to Chile. I thought: “I hope it doesn’t get muddled up.”

What is it like at the South Pole?

An anti-climax! It’s a depot that’s run by the science community. You’re not really meant to go there unless you’re a scientist and they’re not meant to give you material help so we slept in tents. It was very noisy as there was work going on all night – digging and vehicles moving about. It’s -50 wind chill on top of the ice, and you walk into the base under the ice, and people are walking around in shorts, eating pizza. It’s surreal.

What happened when you filmed on the actual Pole?

I had to deliver a 90-second piece to camera. The crew were worried about the cameras freezing so the pressure was on to get it right. I thought I nailed it first time, but it was the soundman who pointed out my unfortunate phrasing: “I remember as a school boy in Sheffield reading about the adventures of Scott and Amundsen under the bed clothes at night.”