Micro vs midi: how to pick the right size ship for cruising in Greece

Cabin: The Elysium has 25 cabins in five categories, including double, triple and interconnecting. I was in one of the larger cabins on the upper deck with a king-size bed and plenty of space surrounding it, plus a decent-size wardrobe with hanging space and drawers. The two large windows meant the cabin was always bathed in light, while the ensuite was a reasonable size with a decent shower and organic toiletries. The only negative was that toilet paper could not be flushed down the loo and had to be placed in a bin. 

Itinerary: Our route around the Cyclades was the ideal balance between the marquee islands of Mykonos and Santorini and smaller hideaways. Even our embarkation port at Lavrio, just outside Athens, was a quiet alternative to the usual hubbub of Piraeus. The buzz of the main islands, which were busy and expensive, contrasted with the sleepy appeal of Koufonisia, Milos and Sifnos, which had a distinctive local flavour along with decent beaches and shops selling local goods. At most islands we had to take tenders, which meant it was harder to pop back to the ship if we needed to, but it was enjoyable skimming across the waves. 

Shore excursions: These were included in the cruise with guided tours at most port calls which were a good introduction. They ranged from a walking tour of Mykonos Town that took us into its quieter back streets to a visit to the tiny deserted village of Chalkeion on Naxos, where we learned how olive oil was traditionally produced. At Koufonisia, our cruise director Darko took us on a walk to a natural sea pool for swimming, while in Milos we explored the tunnels and cliffs of Sarakiniko Beach where some of our group stripped off to jump into the tempting waters. 

In summary: I loved the relaxed house-party feel of this cruise, where the camaraderie flowed as easily as the wine –especially during delightful alfresco meals on deck. The mix of nationalities – mainly Americans plus a sprinkling of Brits and antipodeans – made for interesting conversations and lots of fun, with impromptu Greek dancing around the deck and an entertaining salsa dance class on the beach. Being able to swap the crowds of busier resorts for the peace of the smaller isles, where we sailed into unspoilt bays for beach stays or jumped off the ship during swim stops, were memorable highlights. 

Book it: Unforgettable Greece offers a seven-night round-trip Cyclades sailing from Athens, calling at Naxos, Koufonisia, Milos, Kimolos, Mykonos and Santorini, from £2,350pp half-board, departing June 1, 2024. Flights extra; unforgettablegreece.com 

MID-SIZE 

HOLLAND AMERICA LINE’S SEVEN-NIGHT GREEK ENCHANTMENT CRUISE 

Charlotte Cullinan sailed in August onboard Oosterdam, departing from Trieste and calling at Split, Korcula, Santorini, Rhodes, Kusadasi and Athens. 

Ship: Despite celebrating its 20th birthday this summer, HAL’s Vista-class, mid-sized Oosterdam still feels fresh, thanks to an extensive 2019 refurbishment. Carrying 1,964 passengers at double occupancy, the ship has a friendly, chilled-out vibe, normally with a casual or smart-casual dress code. Facilities include two outdoor pools, five hot tubs and ample sun loungers, and the stand-out spa has a vast treatment menu and popular thermal suite. Many of the bars and lounges host live musicians each evening through the line’s extensive Music Walk programme. Most fellow guests were North American retirees, but mature Brits will certainly feel at home. It could also be a contender for multi-generational groups searching for a relaxed cruise, for children who don’t require constant entertainment. My two sons enjoyed the games room for seven- to 17-year-olds, and a small kids’ club caters for three-to-six-year-olds, but both operate for limited hours each day. 

Food and beverage: This is a ship where guests will be well fed. The Lido Market buffet offers a varied spread throughout the day, and queues move quickly, served by some of the cheeriest crew I’ve met. There are numerous live cooking stations, (the pasta was superb), while by the pool, Dive-In serves high-quality hot dogs, fries and burgers, alongside a make-your-own taco station. Local flavours are brought onboard thanks to themed nights in the buffet and “port-to-table” daily specials in the main dining room. These were some of my favourite meals, with delicious Greek dips, salads and baklava giving an authentic taste of the day’s destinations. Room service is free for most orders. The only restaurants with a surcharge are the steakhouse Pinnacle Grill ($15pp for lunch and $39pp for dinner) and Italian Canaletto ($25pp for dinner), which are both scrumptious. 

Recommend adult clients sample the swish new cocktails using the line’s De Lijn gin, crafted for its 150th anniversary this year. 

Cabin: The 982 cabins span six main categories, with connecting and accessible options, and we stayed in a smartly furnished verandah stateroom sleeping four, with a blue and neutral colour scheme. When the sofa bed and pull-down bunk were in situ it felt fairly cramped for four people, but it would be spacious for a couple, with a generous balcony. The bathroom featured a shower over a small bathtub which will appeal to many guests, and there’s an extensive list of free films for downtime. 

Itinerary: The itinerary included some of Mediterranean’s headline ports, which do get busy (there were six ships in Santorini when we called), but excursions started from 7.30am onwards to help beat the crowds. Seeing the lesser-visited, beautiful Croatian island of Korcula was a highlight, and Turkey’s Kusadasi complemented our Greek ports, thanks to nearby Ephesus. Readily available tenders were only required at Korcula and Santorini, and when disembarking in Piraeus many airport transfers included visits to Athens’ historical sites. 

Shore excursions: There was a vast selection of excursions, incurring fairly standard charges for cruise line-operated trips. Alongside guided tours to major attractions there are interesting options for clients who have visited previously, and in Rhodes we opted for a National Geographic excursion to the Bee Museum of Rhodes ($150pp). It was cancelled due to low take-up, but is one of several new National Geographic day tours introduced across the Mediterranean this summer. In Santorini, unique options included cooking classes, volcano hiking and a catamaran cruise, but we explored Thira’s bustling cobblestone streets on our own, with coach transportation to avoid the long cable car queues ($55pp). Direct foodies to excursions in partnership with US magazine Food & Wine, including a guided tour of Oia followed by an in-depth visit to an off-the-beaten track vineyard ($280pp). 

In summary: For mature clients who relish live music, delicious food and drink, and who want a relaxed atmosphere with ample opportunities to unwind, Oosterdam could be the perfect fit. Itineraries aren’t repeated consecutively, so guests with more time can easily combine sailings. In 2025 HAL will sail from Dover for the first time in more than 10 years, homeporting the Pinnacle class Nieuw Statendam for a full season of 14- to 42-day sailings, providing a host of opportunities for clients to easily discover HAL’s distinctive offering from home shores. 

Book it: 

Holland America Line’s seven-night Adriatic Gems itinerary from Piraeus to Civitavecchia onboard Oosterdam starts from £1,379pp, departing 25 August 2024. Flights extra; hollandamerica.com 

• To find out which other cruise lines sail in Greece, check out TTG’s Cruise Supplier Directory