On the road in Minnesota and Wisconsin

The still waters of the upper Mississippi River are shimmering gold as they reflect the trees lining its banks.

Here, in Wisconsin’s Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge, two anglers slowly paddle their canoe past me in the dying rays of the setting sun.

Days earlier, while playing the Whistling Straits golf course – where golfing stars will battle it out in the 2020 Ryder Cup – alongside Lake Michigan, a bald eagle takes to the air from its nest atop a tall fir tree and soars majestically overhead on a fishing foray.

I’m taking a circular road trip of the neighbouring states of Minnesota and Wisconsin in America’s Upper Midwest, where I’m surrounded by nature.

Yet there is one natural marvel that proves more elusive. While New England is the big draw for Brits crossing the Atlantic to experience the autumn spectacle on “leaf peeping” tours, the show put on in the vast deciduous forests of the Great Lakes states is just as awe-inspiring.

It’s almost mid-October, normally peak autumn foliage season here, but Mother Nature is playing tricks this year.

Crisp autumn nights are a key trigger for the leaves to turn brilliant shades of crimson, yellow, purple and brown. Yet prior to my arrival temperatures have been an unseasonably balmy 32C, putting the phenomenon on hold.

I do enjoy tantalising glimpses of the region’s kaleidoscope of colours, though. Once, at the end of my trip through the Upper Mississippi River Valley that forms the border between the two states, and again early on in central Minnesota’s Brainerd Lakes, a popular holiday area encompassing 500 lakes and waterways.

I gaze at the vibrant red and yellow pockets of trees – the advance guard for the promised mass transformation to come – on a sunset cruise on Gull Lake aboard Destiny Cruises’ elegant motor yacht, North Star.

The yacht sets sail from a dock at the century-old, family-friendly resort Grand View Lodge, where I spend two nights.

It operates public cruises from May to mid-October and docks by fine-dining restaurant Bar Harbor Supper Club.

I enjoy cocktails and steak here after viewing the private historic car and wooden boat collection of restaurant owner and entrepreneur John Allen.

The area is also home to the Midwest’s largest racetrack, Brainerd International Raceway, where clients can watch high-octane drag racing and muscle car races, or perhaps even take the wheel of a racing car themselves.