Revealed: the city with the finest Asian cuisine outside of Asia

But while Vancouver’s food scene is indeed receiving more attention than ever before, this is a city that’s long had a strong tradition of excellent gastronomy, especially emerging from the kitchens of its Asian restaurants. With over half of Metro Vancouver residents now part of a visible minority, immigrants from China, Vietnam, Japan, Thailand and beyond have showcased serious culinary skills across the city for years. 

One of these residents is Japanese chef Hiroshi Hoshiko who moved here in 2011, and he’s brought me to the aptly-named Seafood City at Granville Island’s lively Public Market to take a closer look at what he’ll be slicing and dicing for customers at his recently opened restaurant in North Vancouver, Sushi Mahana (named after his daughter).  

Behind black thick-rimmed glasses and a small grey goatee, Hoshiko eyes up rows of sparkling sea bream on a bed of knobbly ice cubes. 

“This fresh fish is beautiful for sashimi, but for sushi I need some ageing,” he explains as a fan whirrs above the lengthy counters of seafood. “Fresh fish can sometimes be chewy, but after the ageing process the fish meat becomes soft and tender, and everything then blends together, with the sushi rice and fish meat.”

Later, at the minimalist 8-10 seat Sushi Mahana, a gentle jazz piano rings from the speakers and chef Hoshiko prepares a magnificent 17-course omakase experience for me, including a delicate 10-day aged bluefin tuna ohtoro and a succulent Miyazaki beef wagyu. I find out a little later that Hoshiko has cooked for the likes of George Clooney and Mariah Carey, so it’s small surprise that his food is so good. And it won’t be long until the Michelin men are here, either.

North Vancouver is located across Vancouver Harbour from the glassy skyline of downtown and its Shipyards district is packed with cool craft beer breweries and stylish bistros, but I’m intrigued to visit a neighbourhood I remember from my first trip to this city 10 years ago. 

Not only does Kitsilano have one of Vancouver’s most popular beaches boasting cinematic views of hazy silhouetted mountains behind gently lapping crystalline waters, it is also a great draw for foodies. Though Michelin-star restaurant AnnaLena has sprinkled some stardust, the colourful 4th Avenue is block after block of enticing ramen joints, easy-going taco spots and cutesy cafes. 

Located southwest of downtown, it’s a charming escape from the shadow of those soaring skyscrapers and local chef entrepreneur Angus An takes me on a walk through its golden autumnal streets, giving his perspective on Vancouver’s diverse food scene. 

“The industry in general is trending towards more honest cooking, right?” he says. “And I think Vancouver has stayed very true to itself in terms of its dining identity.”

An owns seven restaurants and today he’s taking me to Maenam, an exceptional Thai restaurant he opened in 2007 which is now proudly part of the city’s Michelin Guide.

“We are very multicultural, we have a lot of Asian influence and we have some great restaurants. The Chinese restaurants in Vancouver are world-class, better than some in New York and Chicago.”

At Maenam, An lays out a lunch featuring a divine braised beef cheek soup and an unctuous pork belly stir fry alongside some local British Colombian wine from the Okanagan Valley. It’s beautifully balanced and shows that sublime cooking in this city isn’t only reserved for ultra-formal fine dining. 

Vancouver might be famous for its widescreen scenery and ocean-flanked outdoor lifestyle, but it also may be North America’s best-kept foodie secret. For now, anyway. 

Book it: Canadian Affair offers three nights at a downtown Vancouver Hotel from £1,118, including return London flights; canadianaffair.com

Further links: Vancouver’s Michelin Guide; Sushi Mahana; AnnaLena; Maenam