Taking the slow lane in Central Florida
Daytona Beach and Central Florida are associated with fast cars and thrill rides, but there is a quieter side to the destination, as Peter Ellegard discovers
Yes, I’m in speed city Daytona Beach, but this is no action-packed adrenaline rush.
Instead, I’m taking the slow lane to enjoy the Central Florida region and stop off to discover hidden delights many visitors miss.
Racing cars sped along the hard-packed sands of Daytona Beach in the early 1900s and land speed records were regularly made here, while motorists can still drive along some sections today, albeit at a sedate 10mph.
I swap four wheels for two to tootle along the tide line on a beach cruiser bike after lunch overlooking the beach at the city’s historic grand dame, The Plaza Hotel & Spa (bike rental from Blue Coast Shop). Skirting families playing on the sands, I pass under Daytona Beach’s famous pier on my gentle, hour-long pedal in the sun.
The next day, after breakfast on the beachside terrace of The Shores Resort & Spa at Daytona Beach Shores, I head to Ponce Inlet to board 50-foot catamaran Arabella for a cruise along the protected waterways of the Halifax River and out into the Atlantic. We spot dolphins and a manatee in the crystal-clear waters when the skipper moors by a sandbank on our return.
An ever-present backdrop on our cruise at 175 feet high, the 135-year-old Ponce de Leon Inlet Lighthouse is Florida’s tallest.
Back on dry land, we visit the museum in the still-operational tower and climb its 203 steps for panoramic vistas. A short walk away, the Marine Science Centre has a teaching lab, a nature trail, and a turtle hospital and seabird rehabilitation facility.
DAYTONA HIGHLIGHTS
In the city, the Smithsonian-affiliated Museum of Arts and Sciences features the world’s largest collection of Florida art, Coca-Cola memorabilia in the Root Family Museum plus a planetarium and a children’s museum.
Chocoholics will love downtown institution Angell & Phelps Chocolate Factory, where you watch treats being made on a free guided tour and try samples. My favourites were the chocolate-covered bacon and chocolate-coated crisps.
Ormond Beach is called the “Birthplace of Speed”, as motor racing first began here in 1903, and craft beer brewery Ormond Garage celebrates its heritage with its collection of memorabilia as well as serving up a selection of beers. I try a few then head across the road for dinner at “haunted” mansion restaurant Rose Villa and cocktails at neighbouring speakeasy-style 31 Supper Club.
Another evening I tuck into wine with charcuterie and cheese at Madeline’s Wine Bar followed by a sharing-plate dinner at waterside eatery Mama Foo Foo.
Even for non-petrolheads, the famous Daytona Beach International Speedway circuit is fun to visit. I stay next door at motoring-themed hotel The Daytona and take a VIP tour ($55) that includes a bus ride around its banked track, a finish-line photo stop and a visit to the Archives and Research Centre.
EXPLORING THE REGION
Close to Daytona Beach, I make a pit stop in DeLand to see the murals of MainStreet DeLand, then rustle up my own pancakes for breakfast at De Leon Springs State Park’s Old Spanish Sugar Mill restaurant, where every table has a griddle.
In Central Florida’s Haines City, my base is in Balmoral Resort’s vacation villas, each with its own private pool. I try home-made ice cream made from fresh fruits on a tour of traditional Florida citrus grove Ridge Island Groves.
Also south of Orlando is Bok Tower Gardens in Lake Wales. One of Florida’s first attractions when it opened in 1929, it features 157 acres of lush gardens and the famous 205ft Singing Tower with its 60-bell carillon that is mirrored in a reflecting pool. Another highlight is 20-room Mediterranean-style mansion El Retiro.
Nearby, Legoland Florida in Winter Haven has now been joined by a Peppa Pig Theme Park, making the area perfect for families. (A one-day combo ticket for both parks is available for £106pp through DoSomethingDifferent.com).
My Central Florida experience wraps up with a sunset dinner at Harborside Restaurant on the shore of Lake Shipp. I don’t think I have ever been so chilled on a Florida sojourn…
Book it: A two-week twin-centre break for a family of four to Daytona Beach and Central Florida for Easter 2023 costs from £2,099 per person with Major Travel, featuring 10 nights at The Shores Resort & Spa and five at Balmoral Resort. Price includes flights with Air Canada and car hire. This is an offer price valid for bookings made in September only.
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