The Australian food-obsessed city with better croissants than France

Expectations are high, but the wares are worth the hype. A plate-long pastry twist crunches under my knife, bursting out multiple mushroom varieties, “some for texture, some for taste”. I’ve saved the trademark plain croissant “starter” for later so I’ve got room for dessert; a top restaurant-worthy cinnamon and apple lattice. It’s presented with creme anglaise and ice cream containing crystallised croissant chunks. I’m still recalling the malty flavour days later.

Our half-day insight into Melbourne’s renowned food scene is being led by trade-friendly Localing, who adapt tours to clients’ interests. We’re concentrating mainly on hipster areas, Fitzroy and Collingwood, but make a side trip to the buzzing food-filled Victoria Market. Inside its 19th-century building, we gather round a barrel top to share a tray of shucked Tasmanian oysters, then head outside to a converted caravan for huge fresh mussels in wine sauce.

Back in hipster territory, we sample the famously quirky flavours at Fluffy Torpedo ice cream parlour, which gives 20% of its profits to charity. A white chocolate and Vegemite combo is surprisingly good, with shades of salted caramel.

At nearby Aunty Peg’s, sunlight streams through huge windows setting the amber water glasses aglow on the curved barista bar. Seventies funk plays through the sound system and there’s more retro vinyl beside a turntable awaiting weekend DJ sessions.

The vibe may be relaxed, but we’re here for a tutored coffee tasting, and it’s a technical affair, involving slurping spoonfuls from various brewing stages. “Once coffee cools, its flavour profile changes completely,” explains resident expert James Tomkins. Surrounded by sacks from Kenya, El Salvador, Asia, Yemen and Papua New Guinea, we also sniff handfuls of fair-trade beans and encounter a 1950s-built roaster with a bike gear-style mechanism.

INTERNATIONAL FLAVOURS

Of course, much of Melbourne’s foodie heritage is inextricably tied to its diverse cultural identity. So, led by Foodie Trails, I start my second day at the Immigration Museum inside the former customs house.

Our guide, Christine Guilfoyle, highlights some of the key catalysts for resettlement over the years, among them the 1850s gold rush. Chinese arrivals particularly excelled at prospecting and fell under suspicion (and extra taxes) as a result. But their success was simple; they ran well-organised collectives, which later helped them become Melbourne’s first market gardeners. In the city’s now nearly 170-year-old Chinatown, we stop for dim sum from steaming bamboo baskets.

In more recent history, the Vietnam war brought immigrants from that country. Many went to work in textile factories and were fed by increasingly popular cook stations their compatriots ran outside. Over Vietnamese summer rolls we learn that besides popular noodle dishes, they introduced French-style bread from their colonial heritage. Bahn mi filled rolls are still a popular lunch in Melbourne’s laneways.

“We have two religions here; Aussie Rules football and coffee,” says Christine as we queue for the latter at the hatch of Italian panino bar Saluministi. She takes the opportunity to explain how post-World War II immigration saved the city from poor quality brews.

After dark, I continue the multicultural theme at Philippine wood fire grill restaurant Serai, where the table fills with crispy cups of smoked pineapple with spiced coconut and caviar, unfamiliar pork and fish combinations and melt-in-the-mouth roasted garlic cabbage. Though it’s a relaxed place in a laneway, it’s among Melbourne’s hottest restaurants, and you’ll need to book well ahead to snag clients a table.

WINE TOURING 

The next morning, fog hangs above the yellowing autumn leaves of Yarra Valley, temporarily obscuring the mountain views. My attention is on the foreground, however, where kangaroos have emerged from woodland to nibble the cool grass.

With the wine region an hour from Melbourne, a side trip here is a popular choice. But before we tipple, we call in at the Edible Forest, a kind of extreme allotment at Yarra Valley Estate which supplies ingredients to its restaurant. Flocks of cockatoos screech overhead as we tread paths between densely planted shrubs, trees and herbs. It’s the labour of love of estate owner Louise Ward, who passes my Yarra Valley Touring group tasters of Australian aniseed myrtle leaves, edible flowers and the fruit of the ancient medlar tree.

We have wines matched to a three-course lunch made from more conventional ingredients at the stylish vine view restaurant in Helen & Joey Estate’s new 16-room Re’em Hotel.

Most day-trippers will make at least two tastings and our other is at Dominique Portet, where rosy-feathered galahs dip incongruously over a petanque court. The game hints at the heritage of the vineyard’s eponymous founder, who chose the cool climate of Coldstream, Yarra Valley to echo his native Bordeaux.

As I close my three-day foodie adventure sipping the estate’s sparkling whites, rosés and reds, I wonder if, despite upholding 10 generations of French know-how, the winemakers have ever slipped into the queue for Lune’s famous Aussie-made croissants.

Book it: Localing can tailor-make Melbourne and Great Ocean Road itineraries. It pays commission and works with Audley Travel; localingtours.com

Foodie Trails is planning connections with UK operators. Its latest tour is Dusk Dine and Discovery, covering Melbourne’s nightlife; foodietrails.com.au

Lune Croissanterie has three Melbourne outlets and two in Brisbane. The Lune Lab tasting experience can be booked in either city for £47pp; lunecroissanterie.com

A 23-day Australia holiday with Audley Travel includes three nights in Melbourne and two in Yarra Valley besides visiting Adelaide, Barossa Valley, Grampians National Park, the Great Ocean Road, Sydney and the Blue Mountains. From £6,435pp, it covers flights, accommodation, fully insured car rental and excursions, including a tour with Localing; audleytravel.com/australia