Why this corner of Corfu is the perfect place for a villa holiday

“The island’s lovely north-east coast is a pocket of pine-studded perfection,” says CV Villas business development manager Chris Etheridge. “The beaches have dramatic backdrops, hidden coves are island highlights, and one of the greatest pleasures is the tavernas – not just for the fresh fish, grilled meats and lashings of local wine, but also for the views over the foothills of Corfu’s Mount Pantokrator and the mountains behind the Albanian resort of Ksamil across the water.”

LIFE’S A BEACH

He’s not wrong. We leave our groundskeeper Aris and housekeeper Sofia happily tending to Villa Moira to embark on a beach-hopping journey. We begin in Nisaki, where there’s nothing more than a handful of holiday apartments, a jetty restaurant and a couple of small water sports businesses beside the pebble beach that’s just 25 metres long. The heat of Greece’s September sunshine calls for a cooling dip in the ocean and we don’t hesitate to jump in. Just a few minutes later, I feel a fish taking a cheeky nibble of my toes. But I don’t mind – it’s a sign we’re swimming in a spot where nature is thriving.

A 20-minute drive north and we arrive in the small fishing village of Agios Stefanos in time for lunch. Choosing a chic taverna with well-dressed tables set out along the beach, we sit between the trees in dappled sunshine and learn this taverna – named Eucalyptus – has been operating since 1983, and was once an olive press owned by the Petropoulos family who sent oil daily to Corfu Town by boat. Today, the Corfiot dishes served here have been passed down through generations and include my choice of zingy bacalaro bianco (cod, garlic potatoes, olive oil and lemon), plus a spicy tomato fish spetsofai. This taverna honours both the land and the sea, with all fish being caught responsibly in nearby waters.

Happily full, we are in need of a serene afternoon and Kerasia, less than two kilometres from Agios Stefanos, seems the perfect solution – it’s a tucked-away bay with only one way in and out along a hilly, winding road. We park up on the pebbles just metres from the shallow water’s edge; it’s not long before all three of us are snoozing in the sunshine, sent into a stupor by the sound of the sea.

FRESH TASTES

A Corfu experience my taste buds won’t forget in a hurry is a local wine and product tasting at Ambelonas vineyard and restaurant. It’s a new addition to the CV Villas portfolio, with the experience only bookable via the operator from 2023, although the vineyard itself is far from new. Operated by the same family for four centuries, this gastronomic powerhouse has mastered wine production using red Skopelitiko and white Kakotrigis grapes from its own vines. Owner and cook Mrs Vasiliki Karounou doesn’t export any wines or produce, so this is truly a place of exclusive tastes. 

After a brief description of how the tipples are made (the grape juice is still extracted using the traditional method of barefoot stomping!), a carafe each of red, white and rose wine is brought out alongside a platter of Corfiot salamis, spreads, salads and cheeses, plus freshly baked bread and the rich olive oil Ambelonas is also known for. Describing the flavours as “unique” doesn’t quite do them justice, and I can’t praise Vasiliki’s efforts highly enough. Luckily, there’s a shop on-site, so we can take a taste of Ambelonas away with us.

On our last morning in Corfu we seek out one final adventure. En route to the airport is the high-end hideaway of Kalami, where the literary family, the Durrells, famously lived in The White House. Today, there’s both an air of affluence and historical charm here. I spot a small gazebo on the beach renting water sports equipment and convince my mother to try her hand at stand-up paddle boarding. 

I’m no expert myself but get straight to it with a demonstration, managing to successfully navigate the few buoys, boats and bathers in the bay; all the while The White House commandeering the picturesque backdrop. Triumphantly heading back to shore to give my mother a turn, a school of fish crosses my path. There must be hundreds taking one giant synced leap out of the water before plunging back into the blue, their silvery scales shimmering under the sun’s rays. This time I escape a nibble, but the moment itself is moreish.

Book it: CV Villas’ Edinas House sits in the Kassiopi hills and is new for 2024. A seven-night stay costs from £900pp, based on eight sharing and including concierge, breakfast service and flights from a London airport; cvvillas.com/agent/login

Prices for hire of a nine-seater vehicle for eight days with Avis start at £1,500, based on 3-10 June 2024; abgbeep.com