Borgo Pignano: The luxury Tuscan retreat that takes guests 'back in time'

Recovery mode 

I arrive at Pisa Airport weary; our early flight delayed at the end of an already long week. My eyes twitch from too little sleep and too many screens. There’s a creak in my wrist from typing, and I’m anxious about the emails I’ve missed on the plane. I go on the hunt for signal, only for my phone battery to die, and my sense of purpose to implode. 

As our driver winds through the Tuscan valleys to the stony hamlet of Borgo Pignano, I feel like I’m gatecrashing a fairytale. Fortunately, our hosts are used to welcoming urban imposters like myself. We are greeted by a team of smiling staff; all with a hearty ‘benvenuto’, and accompanied by the resident braying horses in the background.

The warm reception is encored by lunch in the hotel’s dining room; a bright conservatory with leafy views, terracotta tiles and colourful murals. It’s here, as I settle down for a plate of creamy vegan risotto with broad beans, where I learn the first house rule at Borgo Pignano: hospitality starts in the kitchen.

Buon appetito

Food at Borgo Pignano is far more than a functionality; it is an integral part of daily life. 

Our first meal takes place in Villa Pignano, a Green Michelin Star restaurant where lighter interpretations of Tuscan cuisine (courtesy of chef Stefano Cavallini) are served daily for lunch and dinner from April to September. 

Menus are generous without being busy – a selection of four or five dishes for each course. Guests can expect antipasti plates of amberjack carpaccio and beef tartare, as well as pasta staples such as homemade tagliolini, and open ravioli, and gnocchi with wild boar.

Villa Pignano’s desserts, all prepared in the estate’s pastry kitchen, weave another patch into its rich culinary tapestry. A carousel of sweets rounds up every meal, with burned lime ice cream, wild berry pavlova and citrus millefeuille served alongside chocolates and espressos; Borgo Pignano is also able to alter any dish to suit dietary requirements or preferences on request. 

In the summer, there’s the option to eat outdoors in Al Fresco Restaurant where crowd-pleasers such as wood-fired pizza and Caprese salad can be ordered with a side of Tuscan rolling hills, offering an informal alternative to the Villa Pignano’s fine dining. 

A substantial amount of the ingredients used at Borgo Pignano hail from the estate’s vegetable gardens, fruit orchards and farm, and a practice of cultivating ‘heritage varieties’ native to Tuscany is also observed. Grains are raised from ancient seedstocks, which are richer in nutrients than modern counterparts, and olives, cereals and grains are all grown on site. The goal is to be as self-sufficient as possible, continuing on a system of low impact production that has been popular in Tuscany for centuries. 

Borgo Pignano has a total of 35 accommodation options, with the main building featuring 14 guest rooms and suites, all of which include en-suite marble and travertine bathrooms and views of olive groves and vineyards. 

For those who want more privacy, there are also eight maisonettes with one, two and three bedrooms nestled in the heart of the village. Each of these charming boltholes, which have been fashioned from buildings that housed Borgo Pignano staff until shortly after World War II, includes a small kitchen and living area. 

Then there are eight rustic villas dotted around the estate, including our home for the weekend, Villa La Cavallerizza. Bright and spacious, this three-bedroom ‘podere’ has a living and dining room, a fully-equipped kitchen (where guests can avail of a private chef to make maximum use of its potential), and a terrace overlooking the horses’ stables. 

All villas also include a heated infinity pool, BBQ facilities, complimentary use of an electric buggy and 24/7 concierge service. 

These amenities are appreciated, but for me, the divine of Borno Pignano lies in the details. 

Sensory luxuries are everywhere – pillows are scented with fresh lavender, blankets cloak garden furniture, and bottled water sits waiting on nightstands. These gestures are small but powerful, reminding guests that their comfort is a key priority throughout their stay. Notably, none of the accommodation at Borgo Pignano has televisions – a decision apparently appreciated by clients.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     

“We don’t have one complaint about it,” says general manager Simone Arcucci. “We have a TV room in the main hotel, but most guests just want to spend time outside.”

Simple pleasures  

Borgo Pignano has perfected the art of outdoor living, and nowhere is this more evident than in the lengthy list of activities. 

Guests are invited to immerse themselves in nature with horse riding, foraging and stargazing just some of the ways to explore the property’s lush grounds. Maps and umbrellas are also thoughtfully provided, leaving no excuse to venture outside, come rain or shine. 

“Our aim is for guests to do something they don’t normally do, or to try something different,” Arcucci says. “It’s all about the experience.” 

According to Arcucci, however, the most popular activity at Borgo Pignano is its cooking classes. These 90-minute sessions teach guests how to make the dough and sauces for ravioli and tagliatella, which they can then enjoy as a communal meal. Wine-tasting, led by the estate’s sommeliers, as well as artisanal workshops on herbal toiletries and cosmetics, are two other workshops in high demand. 

Passion for painting 

Guests can also unlock their inner Picasso in Borgo Pignano’s painting classes, which – as with the more active experiences – also revolve around the property’s landscape. Taught by alumni of Royal Drawing School (a London-based not-for-profit that provides free or low-cost drawing tuition), lessons are held outside and, depending on the student, last about two to three hours. 

Having not painted since primary school, I was dreading this part of the itinerary. I had visions of me blaspheming Borgo Pignano’s beauty with my artless hand, or worse, staining its patio with my muddied acrylics. The hovering of other guests only inflamed this anxiety; I feared they’d laugh at my blotchy clouds, or scoff at my white shoes.  

Luckily, our teacher, award-winning artist Fraser Scarfe, was on standby to dispel any nerves. After delivering an introduction to landscape painting, he asked us to pick a canvas size and a scene we found inspiring. Easels, brushes and palettes handed out, and, uplifted by a pep talk from Scarfe, we got to work. 

As I watered and dabbed the paint, the anxiety simmered, and I became transfixed by the colours unfolding in front of me. Scarfe checked up on us every 20 minutes to offer advice and support, as well as much-needed coffee. 

Three hours later, I’d completed my picture; an A4 of blue skies, brown mountains and green valleys. It wasn’t perfect, and it certainly wasn’t gallery standard, but it was mine. 

As I proudly carried my masterpiece back to the villa, I realised it wouldn’t be the only souvenir I’d be taking home. The painting class had awoken a dormant part of me, stretching a creative muscle I hadn’t flexed in years and reminding me of how good it felt. 

After video calling my mum to show off the piece, I found myself growing emotional at the tiny black initials in its bottom right-hand corner. It was at this moment that I appreciated Borgo Pignano, with its school day pleasures of art, cooking and sport, for just how special it is. 

The estate doesn’t want you to leave yourself behind, but to rediscover the person you’ve always been – so that, no matter where you are, you can continue the journey in your own life. Now that’s what I call a keepsake. 

Borgo Pignano offers rooms from €350 per night based on two adults staying in the main Villa, on a B&B basis.