The renewed Cape Grace hotel promises ‘a piece of South Africa’s heart’

A fresh dining concept

Sitting beside the F&B director of Cape Grace, Bryan Peterson, in the hotel’s flagship restaurant – Heirloom – tucking into tender ostrich tartare and melt-in-your-mouth seabass collars he lets slip he believes “fine dining has run its course”. In its place, he adds, is “family-style dining”.

Laid down before us and presented in three multi-dish courses are generously loaded plates containing everything from crispy chickpea hummus and linefish kokoda to chimichurri-drizzled tomahawk, and to finish a trio of heavenly desserts (the lemon posset with gold-leaf-laced raspberries is a particular highlight). There’s no eight-course tasting menu of puny portions to be found here – just carefully curated and expertly executed fare.

Eyes on the art

It’s easy to breeze past the art on Cape Grace’s walls en route to breakfast or the pool, but if guests with an appreciation for creativity know to look, they’re in for a treat. All work has been produced by artists originating from the African continent and every piece tells its own story.

I’m taken by one yellow-and-black artwork near the library that at first glance looks like a square sheet of oblong beads, but on closer inspection is a hard blanket of pill capsules stitched together with black thread. A young talent with chronic illness named Leila Abrahams is the artist. Her message? To be compassionate, because you can’t always see when someone is struggling.

Liquor me up

Cape Grace’s speakeasy-inspired Bascule Bar is not exempt from housing the hotel’s art collection; it displays the powerful work of 18 local, emerging artists. But it’s the whisky that steals the limelight in this basement bolthole. Open from 12pm until late, it’s where guests can settle into the cosy, low-lit bar to sample 570 whiskies from 170 distilleries spanning 12 countries (though please, advise not all at once).

Bascule’s collection includes rare vintages dating back to 1953 and sought-after libations from discontinued casks – it’s a true treasure trove. And, there’s even a temperature-controlled cellar out back where for a price guests can store special-occasion bottles of wine or spirits to dip into during their stay, or return to time and time again.

Soporific in the spa

Having been relocated from the fourth floor to the first to be within easy reach of the pool, Cape Grace’s Fairmont Spa was treated to maybe the most dramatic transformation of all. It’s now home to three fresh treatment rooms, a sauna and steam room, a mosaiced salt room and a curious experience shower.

I opt for the 60-minute Swedish Massage and choose the Deep Relax essential oil for the room’s aroma, as well as a muscle relaxant oil for my frequently knotted upper back. It’s not long at all before my therapist is kneading hot, black, shiny stones into my muscles plagued with the effects of a long-haul flight the day before. A cool, gel face pillow and heated blanket keeps me comfortable enough to nod off and – yikes – let out a singular snore. I’d say the spa’s mission has been well and truly accomplished.