Sandals’ 17th resort is the reconceptualisation of a historic location, close to one of Jamaica’s natural wonders. TTG checks into the next-generation property
Just lie back and relax,” I’m told. A second later, I’m sliding down smooth curved rock, my ears and nose filling with water. I’d seen pictures of the climb up Jamaica’s stepped Dunn’s River Falls, but from the beach at their base, featured in the famous Ursula Andress Bond scene, the scale of the task is a shock.
Wearing anti-slip shoes, over the next scary but exhilarating hour I scramble 55 metres upwards using toe holds in the limestone rocks and resting in cool pools under coconut trees. Our guide indicates algae-free routes and offers a helping hand at the trickier sections.
Jamaica’s most famous attraction is just 10 minutes from Sandals Dunn’s River Resort, Ocho Rios, which opened in May following a complete renovation. Sandals had previously managed but now owns the 260-room property.
I first experienced Sandals in the late 90s, when its tropical patterns and pink accents were already dated, so I’m pleased to find them finally replaced by gorgeous contemporary styling. The poolside day beds are black-and white striped, and reception is a vision in sculpted wood and trailing plants. I photograph coloured tile work and cool lighting, Google the tableware and admire a moss wall depicting a hummingbird.
Sandals Dunn’s River is dubbed a “next generation” resort as the company looks to double its properties, and it’s not only design that impress. We’re staying in a Tufa Terrace One Bedroom Skypool Butler Suite, a Jamaica first, which has a clear-fronted pool the length of the balcony with a free-standing bath alongside. I also love the flatteringly lit mirrors and circular tub in the bathroom.
The Skypool proves long enough for three or four swim strokes. From here, level with the treetops, we watch huge frigate birds circling and Sandals catamarans manoeuvring in the turquoise sea.
Meanwhile, situated away from the beach, Coyaba Sky Villas are a Sandals first, with secluded roof terraces where guests can receive guided stargazing sessions using personal telescopes. “What you’re doing is creating a
memory,” explains resort general manager Deryk Meany. “In the hospitality world, if you stand still, you crumble and disappear.”
Of the Caribbean-wide “Sandals 2.0” improvements he adds: “[We have] 40 years’ worth now of information from people that visit, from airlines and travel advisors. We understand, for instance, that for 260 rooms you need more than five restaurants – we have 12 here so you get a more intimate experience.”
Eight of these are evening restaurants with charming staff. For a sense of occasion, guests can book new French-themed La Amande, which has chandeliers but remains informal enough for football chat with our waiter. New Greek restaurant Edessa also opens for a la carte breakfasts, like eggs Benedict and avocado toast.
Unsurprisingly, the best eateries are not attempting European or Asian cuisine but showcasing local classics. I have delicious foil-wrapped fish at the beach Jerk Shack, which also serves up jerk chicken, curried goat and whole snapper. It opens for lunch and, by reservation, dinner, when we enjoy the shabby-chic vibe and the sound of the waves.
Dunn’s Rum Club, another Sandals first, has over 30 versions of the spirit and is the best bar for strong, well-mixed cocktails. An equal highlight is its tapas. The pepper shrimp is eye-rollingly good, and meat lovers praise the oxtail slider. Following its introduction at Sandals Royal Curacao, a dine-around programme featuring off-site restaurants is coming soon.
Influencers have been wowed by the resort’s design and innovations like barista-led coffee shop Blum, which also serves early risers from a beach bicycle. They’ve helped lower Sandals’ age demographic from 40+ to monied couples in their 20s and 30s.
I notice a mood shift, since I was last at a Sandals. Piped soft rock tunes are replaced by a poolside DJ. An American couple mark their anniversary with corresponding “Soul” and “Mate” T-shirts, but there’s generally less cheese and more double-date dining. Fun-loving friends congregate around the swim-up bar, and it’s worth noting the Skypool suites overlook this, though the Bluetooth speaker proves handy when I prefer to chill.
Not that Sandals has lost its romance. We spot five weddings and vow renewals over the week. Couples concluding their beach ceremonies are cheered by nearby swimmers.
Our shady balcony pool is our refuge from afternoon heat before cheeky sundowners at the swim-up bar. We also make daily visits to air-conditioned Blum, working through various hot and iced versions of Jamaica’s renowned Blue Mountain coffee.
With guests spread over several bars, or perhaps sleeping off earlier indulgence, evenings feel low-key. After the main nightly entertainment, there’s a pianist-led sing-along in the lobby. In the morning, a solo saxophonist sets the mood at breakfast.
Our butler checks in with us daily via a mobile we call “the bat phone”. He books the reservation-only restaurants and bags us a poolside cabana with stocked cool box. On our late arrival at the resort, discovering the bath he’d run us nearly made me weep.
Following my Dunn’s River excursion, I again use Sandals’ partner, Island Routes, to book a cooking class at nearby Prospect Plantation. A jitney with a driver full of innuendo-laden jokes takes us through a former colonial estate. We stop to sniff fragrant allspice leaves and see the shrinking plant that once betrayed the footsteps of escaping slaves. A free scholarship school and quad biking tours now operate here.
At the house, we gather around a barbecue on a breezy veranda. Unlike the jerk chicken seasoning we apply, the experience is a mild one, with us contributing pre-chopped ingredients to communal pots. But it’s pleasant to linger overlooking gardens and the sea, to taste authentic flavours and take away a recipe for cracking festival dumplings.
I like cultural touring, boutique hotels and local restaurants, so an all-inclusive is, theoretically, not my cup of tea. Yet my Sandals stay doesn’t feel restrictive. Besides the excursions, we take complimentary kayaks
and paddle boards out on the bath-like sea.
And there’s always our butler to lead us astray. Unprompted, on our last full day, he delivers cocktails to our balcony pool before noon. Perhaps I could get used to this.
Book it: Unique Caribbean Holidays Ltd (UCHL) offers seven nights’ all-inclusive at Sandals Dunn’s River in a Tufa Terrace One Bedroom Skypool Butler Suite with Balcony Tranquillity Soaking Tub from £4,765pp, incorporating British Airways flights and transfers, departing on 3 September 2024; booking.sandals.co.uk/fusion/agentlogin.pl
Smarter: Island Routes tours are fully commissionable when booked before travel through UCHL, sandals.co.uk/tours/. Find further tips via agent hub sellingsandals.co.uk.
Better: New Coyaba Sky Villa Swim-up Rondoval Butler Suites have roof terraces featuring day beds, baths and telescopes. These peaceful, romantic villas are connected to a river-style pool, while some also have their own private pools.
Fairer: Encourage clients to support the Sandals Foundation by donating school supplies. Visit packforapurpose.org for more information.