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How to go off the beaten path in India, by an operator who knows it best

Yasin Zargar, managing director, Indus Experiences shares his tips for venturing into lesser-known regions  

and travelling sustainably in India and beyond

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Cruise along Kerala's enchanting backwaters and you'll see slices of local life amid scenes of tranquility
Cruise along Kerala's enchanting backwaters and you'll see slices of local life amid scenes of tranquility

Which destination most inspired you to set up Indus Experiences?

As a young recruit in travel many decades ago, I used to frequently traverse the path from Kashmir to Ladakh, leading British and American groups to this rugged and isolated part of India. Driving along the banks of the River Indus, the varied forms of the river and its ability to nurture life stuck in my mind, and became the heart of my dream to set up Indus Experiences, 27 years ago. In those days, most visitors travelled on standard group tours; my vision was to offer trips that were much more personal than that.

Which destination is impressing you from a sustainability point of view?

Tilar Siro was just launched by our business partners, CGH Earth. It’s a sustainable boutique hotel on an unspoilt island in the Andaman archipelago, 1,400km from mainland India. Twenty-five rooms on stilts are camouflaged by tropical foliage to blend in with the wetland forest and allow guests to experience nature all around them. The focus is on minimalist luxury with an eco-friendly ethos: glass water bottles, wooden amenities, microbiome toiletries and artworks created with scrap metal and bamboo left over from the building project. There’s diving, snorkelling, birdwatching and intertidal walks to discover the native flora and fauna, and a real engagement with the local community.

 

I should also mention Bhutan, the world’s only carbon-negative country, which has impressed us with its commitment to preserving the environment and staving off mass tourism. Now it has taken a bold step further by increasing its sustainable development fee for tourists from $65 to $200 per night. It will be interesting to see the effects of this going forward. 

Tilar Siro occupies an unspoilt island in the remote Andaman archipelago
Tilar Siro occupies an unspoilt island in the remote Andaman archipelago

Where have you travelled most recently?

In May I travelled to the Kerala Travel Mart, India’s biggest B2B tourism conference. I met a new cohort of young travel professionals bringing fresh ideas to the industry, and noticed a real drive towards positive change and sustainability. Near Thrissur, Kerala’s cultural capital, Neelambari is an authentic place to stay for a sustainable “village tourism experience” in a pristine rural area. It has classic Keralan architecture, wellness activities, and an ethnic kitchen where vegetarian specialities are prepared using traditional equipment and local produce. The entire team of staff are from the local village and offer guests a flavour of local life and culture.

Head to the north-east of India to absorb the culture of the indigenous people in Nagaland...
Head to the north-east of India to absorb the culture of the indigenous people in Nagaland...

Which country should British tourists pay more attention to?

I’d have to say Uzbekistan – it’s authentic, safe for independent travellers, free from crowds and has a fascinating cultural mix dating back to the days of the Silk Road. I love the Uzbek concept of friendly local tourist police, giving out helpful advice at major hotspots. Best of all, you can still see architecture on a par with the Taj Mahal, and have the place to yourself. Or visit the ancient walled city of Khiva with its mosques and madrassas, and be treated like a special guest by the people who live there today. Go now before mass tourism arrives – plus, there are no visas or formalities for British passport holders on visits of up to 15 days.

 

As for India, the north-east still feels unexplored and off the beaten track. Tourists can absorb the culture of local indigenous peoples in Nagaland, meander through the tea plantations of Assam, cruise the Brahmaputra River, explore the river island of Majuli and track one-horned rhino in Kaziranga national park.

... and to see one-horned rhinos in Kaziranga national park
... and to see one-horned rhinos in Kaziranga national park

Which special interest tour are you most excited about running in 2023?

I’m delighted to be offering our Tigers of India small-group tour in November 2023, with professional wildlife photographer Steve Race. Spotting and photographing these incredible creatures in their natural habitat in Bandhavgarh national park is such a thrilling experience and possibly the perfect trip for clients who have been saving up to do something really memorable after the pandemic. Whether it’s photography or wildlife, gastronomy or textiles, we’re always keen to hear from trade partners wanting to create a special interest tour of their own, perhaps for a local club.

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