I stayed in Southern Ocean Lodge, Kangaroo Island's most luxurious resort

The dramatic main lounge with huge, curved picture windows and suspended fireplace is back at the lodge’s heart. Wild ocean views can be enjoyed with a drink from a substantial complimentary self-serve bar and, when the weather allows, from an alfresco pool nearby. A total of 23 suites snake eastward from here, their original views improved by a slight reorientation. 

The separate Baillie Pavilion is a new addition and can be booked whole with four king bedrooms and ensuite bathrooms, or as two separate suites with their own lounges, bars, feature fireplaces and terrace plunge pools. Beside the relocated three treatment room spa (book ahead), a terrace with hot and cold plunge pools is another new feature.

Wild ocean views can be enjoyed with a drink from a substantial complimentary self-serve bar

Sumptuous luxury is not the intention: keeping the view the star, the lodge has a pared-back style and muted palette. Creams sit against polished wood, though, with delight, I realise the blue cushion pattern is running kangaroos. 

In my Flinders suite I dip my electronically controlled blinds to use the enormous walk-in rainfall shower and free-standing bath. After dinner, still wired with jetlag, I nibble koala-shaped turndown chocolate on the curved seating of my sunken lounge, listening to the sea crashing below, and finally become drowsy thanks to the EcoSmart fireplace which has been lit for me.

Sumptuous luxury is not the intention: keeping the view the star, the lodge has a pared-back style

As a non-red meat eater, I’m given personalised menus at meals. Dishes are prettily presented and inventive. One evening my huge crayfish starter is followed by barramundi with blackcurrant and turnip three ways, the fish farmed by a local school. Oysters, pheasants, wild-caught fish, wine, spirits and honey also grace the extensive list of island-sourced products. The off-grid property’s sustainable approach goes further, incorporating treated rain and bore-water and solar power.

I’m free to choose my own bottle from hundreds in the complimentary walk-in red wine cellar which adjoins the restaurant. It’s typical of the relaxed vibe. Dinner dress is smart-casual and when, afterwards, I help myself to a malt whisky in the lounge, I find few others have lingered.

Guests are outdoorsy types, typically staying three or four nights. They’re right; attempting all the included excursions within two days leaves me little time to relax.

But it would be missing the point not to join the enthusiastically guided minibus tours and learn more about this nature-rich island. I visit the Seal Bay sealion colony and the rugged coastline around stalactite-edged Admiral’s Arch. I take multiple photos at the fantastically eroded Remarkable Rocks and spot feeding koalas on a nighttime walking safari.

A clifftop walk leads directly from the lodge. My guide points out high caves where ospreys nest. They’ve inspired the name of a corner suite with its own infinity pool and 270° views. Trekking onwards, we spot dolphins arcing through the waves and, under the bright blue water, a sleek sealion hunting fish.

Rising for an early departure the next morning, I catch a spectacular pink-hued sunrise over the ocean, a fitting reminder of beautiful new beginnings.

Southern Ocean Lodge is one of seven Baillie Lodges and a member of Luxury Lodges of Australia. It’s featured by operators including A&K, Audley, Carrier and Inspiring Travel.