ao link

 

Whole new ball game: exploring a refurbed hotel in the home of golf

It’s just a stone’s throw from golf’s spiritual home, but the refurbished Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa at St Andrews has plenty more to offer than just playing a round.

TR-XFBLIWAeCard

As the impressive edifice looms into view, a feeling of elation washes over me. I’ve just arrived at the Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa in St Andrews, Fife – the home of golf – and the sense of sporting history is palpable.

 

As an avid but frustratingly untalented golfer, the chance to see the venue where legends of the game such as Tiger Woods, Nick Faldo, Seve Ballesteros and Jack Nicklaus have won the Open Championship and held aloft the famous Claret Jug is a genuine thrill.

 

On my way to reception I pass by a member of the concierge team in full kilt and tam o’shanter and breathe in the old world glamour and charm. At the time of my visit in mid-September, mask wearing was still mandatory in the public areas of the hotel, but the mild discomfort is soon forgotten as I enjoy a smooth check-in and make my way along seemingly endless corridors to my room.

 

The hotel occupies an unrivalled position overlooking the famous 17th hole of the Old Course, known as the Road Hole due to the thoroughfare that hugs the side of the fairway as it winds its way towards St Andrews.

 

I stay in one of the Old Course rooms, which benefit from that amazing view, as well as vistas of the Scottish coastline beyond, with skies that seem to change colour at every glance, from brilliant blues and stormy greys in the daytime to bruised purple and blood-red hues at sunset.

A penthouse is one of the recent additions to the hotel
A penthouse is one of the recent additions to the hotel

Passion project

For a place seemingly steeped in history, the hotel building itself is relatively modern, constructed in 1968 by British Transport Hotels, thanks to its location next to St Andrews railway station, which then closed just a year later.

 

Now part of the portfolio of US company Kohler’s Resort and Golf Destinations, the hotel has undergone a multimillion-pound refurbishment and expansion project, including the addition of 31 guest rooms as well as a penthouse on the fourth floor with an internal lift, fire pit and balcony overlooking the Old Course.

 

My guide around this labyrinthine leviathan is the hotel’s senior marketing manager Ella Robbins, who explains that pre-Covid, the vast majority of the hotel’s business came through golfers, but that the last 18 months have given the hotel time to reassess its target audience and diversify. The impressive Hall of Champions, a venue that can cater for up to 500 guests, is targeting the lucrative wedding market, while the huge property’s portfolio also contains six other events spaces – ranging from intimate private dining and meeting rooms to the 200-person capacity ballroom with its stunning crystal chandeliers.

The hydrotherapy pool is part of the wellbeing offer at the Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa
The hydrotherapy pool is part of the wellbeing offer at the Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa

Letting off steam

After my whistle-stop tour, I feel in need of a spot of R&R, and what better way to unwind than at the hotel’s spa? It’s another location that’s seen significant refurbishment (with the introduction of a new fitness centre and swimming pool in 2018) and fits perfectly with the luxury ethos of the venue. Kohler is known as a leader in high-end bathrooms, so it’s little surprise the wellbeing elements are top notch.

 

I’m led through this temple of serenity to my massage, and after 30 minutes of vigorous manipulation I continue through to the pool and hydrotherapy area, where a quick swim and a soak in the bubbling waters releases any residual tension. Chatting to my fellow spa enthusiasts, it becomes apparent that it’s a place enjoyed as much by locals as by hotel guests, and is another example of how the hotel is being embraced by the community it serves.

 

And that sense of community and togetherness has been important over the last 18 months as the hotel endured two periods of enforced closure during the pandemic. Some people were furloughed but a rota of staff lived at the hotel for a week at a time to keep essential services running and satisfy insurance obligations.

 

You see that team spirit and attention to customer service shine through everywhere you go at the hotel, and it’s obvious there’s a great bond and camaraderie among the staff. I recall my chat with Laura from the concierge team who ferried me from Edinburgh airport – she’s been in hospitality “for more years than she can remember” but says this is “the best team she’s ever worked with”.

The buzz is back

I remember those words as I head to the fourth floor for dinner at the Road Hole restaurant where I feast on more great views, this time the twinkling lights of the hotel’s sister property, The Hamilton Grand, and the headquarters of British golf’s ruling body, The R&A, in the distance. The hotel uses locally sourced, sustainable produce where possible, and my hot salmon salad followed by a beautifully tender Scotch fillet steak are great examples. Indeed, even the breakfast menu includes local delights such as mini haggis and potato scones.

 

After the travails of lockdown, it’s a delight to experience an exciting buzz in a packed restaurant, and I pick out plenty of American accents in the hubbub, a trend that’s likely to continue apace given recent positive news around relaxation of travel restrictions on both sides of the pond.

 

Alas, I’m just a couple of weeks too early to see the last of the scheduled refurbishments to the hotel, an 80-cover restaurant situated next to the Road Hole restaurant, which Robbins says will offer a lighter “champagne and oysters” style of dining in a bid to attract more non-residents, and perhaps a slightly younger demographic.

A wee dram

The Jigger Inn is a legendary watering hole
The Jigger Inn is a legendary watering hole

Next stop is the adjoining Road Hole bar, where I sink into one of the fabulously comfortable chesterfield chairs and hover my smartphone over a QR code that brings up the bar’s impressive menu of nearly 300 single malt and blended whiskies from around Scotland. Apparently, owner Mr Kohler has got his designs on this area of his property, and according to Robbins, plans to "significantly increase" the number of whiskies on offer. Looks like they’re going to need a bigger bar…

 

The choice is bewildering, but as you’d expect from a five-star establishment, there’s someone on hand to help – in this case the bar’s very own whisky sommelier, who guides me through the flavours and specialities of each region’s offerings and suggests a tipple he thinks will be to my taste. Several successful guesses later, I drag myself away from my chesterfield to steady myself for the walk along those endless corridors to reach my room and its comfy bed.

 

The next morning, I clear my head with a brisk 10-minute walk into the pretty town of St Andrews, home to the third oldest university in the English-speaking world and the place where a certain prince met his wife to be.

 

The town’s medieval centre is a maze of cobbled streets and narrow alleyways, and there are plenty of cafes, pubs and restaurants dotted along the route if you fancy a pit stop. Talking of which, on my way back I drop into The Jigger Inn, a legendary watering hole enjoyed by golfers (who refer to it as “the 19th hole”), guests and locals alike.

 

Situated in the shadow of the main hotel, this beautiful whitewashed building dates back to the 1850s and became part of the hotel itself in 1974. Originally the stationmaster’s lodge, the interior is now filled with golf memorabilia and a clock on the wall that is fixed at the time the very last train left St Andrew’s railway station. I take a seat in the cute courtyard and enjoy a pint of its exclusive Jigger Ale as the varied clientele, from students and tourists to dog-walkers, chatter in the background.

Tee time

Simon experiences the Himalayas putting green on the Old Course
Simon experiences the Himalayas putting green on the Old Course

Oh, and did I mention that St Andrew’s was famous for golf? As my stay draws to a close, it’s time to don the spikes and head out on to the course.

 

Not the Old Course itself on this occasion – you can play at the iconic venue but it involves either turning up 48 hours before you want to play and entering a ballot, or joining the singles queue overnight where spaces are allocated on a first-come, first-served basis. I content myself with playing at The Duke’s, a nearby heathland course that’s also owned by the Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa, and where guests can arrange to play (green fee £125).

 

It’s a truly stunning course, affording picture-postcard views of St Andrews and the Fife coastline from a series of elevated tees, which proves a welcome distraction as I wage a private battle against the devilishly difficult bunkers that lie in wait for every errant shot.

 

Arriving back in the clubhouse, I’m about to organise my trip back to the hotel when I feel a tap on my shoulder. “Mr Britchfield, can I offer you a lift back?” It’s Attila, who was working at the restaurant the night before and recognises me – there’s that five-star service again…

 

Back at the hotel, as I reflect on my pilgrimage to the spiritual home of golf, I realise there’s so much more to do here than just hit the fairways. And with its upgraded facilities, fine dining, relaxing spa and unparalleled levels of service, as well as providing a base to explore one of Scotland’s most beautiful coastline, the Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa really does provide a winning combination.

How to book it

Book it

Room rates at the Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa start at £460 per night in high season (April-October) and £220 per night in low season (November-March), oldcoursehotel.co.uk

 

Getting there

One-hour drive from Edinburgh airport, which is well served by a number of UK airports, including Gatwick, Heathrow and London City, and a 20-minute drive from Dundee Airport. By train, change at Edinburgh Waverley for Leuchars station, which is a 10-minute journey from the hotel.

 

Smarter, Better, Fairer

Smarter: Suggest guests hire a bike from the concierge team to explore the streets of St Andrews or follow the Fife coastal path and stop off at a seaside town for lunch; £30 for four hours/£50 for eight hours.

Better: The hotel recently hired a consultant to push forward its sustainability strategy but has already replaced plastic straws with paper ones, while all digital room keys are made from biodegradable plastic.

Fairer: The hotel hires locally where at all possible and organises wellness weeks for its employees.

Upcoming events

Day of Luxury 2024

Day of Luxury 2024

Luxpo October 2024

Luxpo October 2024

TTG - Travel Trade Gazette
For Smarter, Better, Fairer Travel
B Corp-certified
TTG Media Limited.
Place of registration: England and Wales.
Company number 08723341.
Registered address: 6th Floor, 2 London Wall Place, London EC2Y 5AU
We use cookies so we can provide you with the best online experience. By continuing to browse this site you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Click on the banner to find out more.
Cookie Settings