The 2,000-year-old archaeology site that's more popular than ever
Incredible new discoveries, revealed in a BBC series, have piqued the public’s interest in Pompeii. Rebecca Crowe visits the ancient Roman city – now subject to a daily visitor cap – and checks into Habita79 Pompeii
Standing in the quiet in the middle of the empty amphitheatre, it’s impossible not to feel the historic reverence of Pompeii. Despite being buried under ash by the ever-looming Mount Vesuvius almost 2,000 years ago, this archeological ghost town brings the Roman way of life to the forefront of the imagination.
Recently, Pompeii has had a new lease of life. With new discoveries including a tiny house filled with beautiful frescos, and exciting DNA-based discoveries about the final moments of the residents’ lives, archeologists continue to discover more and more about this amazing site.
As I wander about the Roman flagstones, I can see excavations happening all around. I turn a corner down one of the many side streets and stumble across a small team of five archeologists, carefully brushing away dust, pausing, examining, then continuing to brush. It’s almost hypnotic to watch. 2,000 years on, the anticipation of new knowledge still inspires historians and archeologists to descend on Pompeii year after year. It’s certainly an exciting time to visit.
The new DNA discoveries are feeding our knowledge of life in ancient Pompeii. A couple, once thought to be a man and a woman, locked in an embrace during their final moments, have been proven to both be men, changing our perceptions of life, culture, and society. It’s these human angles that bring Pompeii to life. I stand at a bar in a taverna before wandering down the main street past the amphora maker to the imposing and incredibly well-preserved temples. It’s impossible not to be impacted by the scale of this town and the normality of daily life compared with our modern standards.
With archeological digs happening in real time, Pompeii is thriving with new discoveries, insights, and possibilities. But this surge in interest comes at a cost for the unique and fragile attraction. In 2023, nearly four million people visited Pompeii, which was a record high. The site has become so overwhelmingly popular that the park has introduced a 20,000-visitor cap each day with allocated time slots to deal with the demand, which peaks in the summer months. This cap was brought in on 15 November and will stretch all year long. It should help encourage travelling to Pompeii in the shoulder season, like I am doing, when the temperatures aren’t quite so sweltering (there is a distinct lack of shade in the park) and the crowds aren’t as daunting.
Visitor tips
Dr Sophie Hay, an archeologist at the Archeological Park of Pompeii, recommends an off-peak visit to the park: “The best months to come to Pompeii are the winter months particularly December and January. There are not many tourists and the days can be crisp, fresh and sunny. The light is beautiful, warm and soft at that time of year too and Pompeii looks simply magical.”
She also recommends planning visits carefully: “Pompeii is much larger than people expect and there is no point trying to accomplish everything, especially in a one-day visit.”
“The other trick is to try and avoid retracing your steps – plot a route around the site that takes you along different roads (staying off the main roads is also to be recommended) to see the highlights that you want to see.”
Located just a five-minute walk from the park’s main gate is Habita79, an MGallery hotel that had a quiet opening during the pandemic in 2021.
Housed in a grand, historic building from the early 1900s, it harks back to the luxury hotels of old that feel grand and storied, setting the tone for your clients’ stay in this historic town.
The time travelling continues inside. Art Deco is the leading influence and the jewel-toned green tiled pillars in Il Circolo bar and restaurant are as mesmerising as the views of Mt Vesuvius from certain rooms. After visiting the archeological park, I find waking up with views of the volcano makes an even deeper impact.
Staying at Habita79, with its personalised service and modern comforts, certainly makes strategic sense for those visiting Pompeii. And Pompeii remains a must-visit for history aficionados – the beautiful frescoes, plaster casts of the residents and amazing artefacts giving unique insight into ancient Roman life. Despite the age of Pompeii and the depth of the discoveries that have already been made, it’s amazing that we’re still finding out more about this town every year. With live excavations, your clients could be at the park while these historic discoveries are being made, and that is a rare and spectacular experience.
Book it: Cox & Kings offers a five-night tailor-made trip from £995pp, staying at Habita79 Pompeii, based on two sharing. Price includes flights departing from the UK, transfers, select sightseeing and accommodation on a B&B basis; coxandkings.co.uk
Getting there by train
Due to the winter flight schedule, I opt to fly into Rome and travel down by train, writes Rebecca Crowe. Trains from Roma Termini station to Pompeii cost from 25 euros each way, with an easy connection in Naples.
Returning from Pompeii to Naples-Capodichino International Airport is a breeze. It’s a 30-45-minute train (depending on the service) to Naples Centrale and then a short 15-minute bus ride out to the airport.
Connections from Naples to some more of Italy’s most beloved spots are frequent, with direct daily routes to Rome, Milan, Florence, Bologna, and Bari. The high-speed connections mean you can be in Rome in an hour and 15 minutes and as far north as Milan in under five hours, travelling through the picturesque Italian countryside.
trenitalia.com/en.html
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