The Caribbean island that's out of bounds to cruise ships

WORLD-CLASS BEACHES

A day earlier, as the plane descends into Providenciales, the third largest island in Turks and Caicos and the most populated, I am struck by how flat the archipelago is. The limestone origins of these islands have helped create two of the destination’s calling cards, its powder-white beaches and clear, azure waters. The limestone is soft as it crumbles – there’s almost no gravel on the beaches and ocean floor to discolour the sand. When the light reflects off the shallow sandy-bottomed water, the turquoise hues are dazzling – and these are the views we enjoy at Wymara Resort, situated on the three-mile sweep of Grace Bay Beach, which is no stranger on lists of the world’s best beaches.

Wymara is independently owned, and blossoming in a new phase of ownership after previously being tied to Gansevoort. The resort’s modern minimalist design leaves Grace Bay Beach to do the talking – arriving at reception, I’m immediately distracted from the business of check-in by the views across the swimming pool to the shoreline beyond. 

Relaxing on such an exquisite beach is a tonic in itself, but the hotel also promotes a holistic wellbeing approach, with guided meditation, sound baths, yoga, energy healing and restorative treatments on offer, and through the fresh, sustainable menus on offer at Indigo fine dining restaurant and Blue Water Bistro. 

The resort’s chief executive Shelley Rincon explains how the property’s ethos stems from a deep understanding of the emotional needs of guests. “We make each guest feel uniquely valued and understood, and this approach is fundamental to our commitment to luxury.”

This personalised service, combined with classy touches, such as Aesop bath products, Dyson hair dryers and freshly baked cookies as part of the turndown service, gives the resort a friendly, boutique feel. All this in a picture-perfect location, it feels like a dream ticket.

But Rincon is also acutely aware that the hotel is a guardian of its privileged address, and the business must help preserve the reefs that surround and protect the islands. Since 2021, single-use plastics have been removed from the property, and a $2 nightly guest charge is collected for the Turks and Caicos Reef Fund.

Rincon adds: “This is personal and critical to me, and is integral to our brand, that we conduct business in a manner that respects the immense beauty of our natural environment.”

CHANGE IS COMING

It won’t be long before Wymara has additional neighbours along Grace Bay. Construction has begun on an Andaz, which will open in December 2025 while a Kempinski and a St Regis are both due to break ground in the first half of next year. And that’s just Grace Bay – there are other developments planned for this destination that’s already a firm favourite with the US market. Europe is an untapped source market that could bring many more planeloads.

A significant factor that does ease the pressure on the tourist population is the absence of cruise ships in Providenciales. There’s a 547-km barrier reef surrounding the islands, which ships can only avoid by sailing into Grand Turk, more than 100km away.

For smaller boats and yachts, though, we’re talking a sailor’s paradise. Turks and Caicos is made up of 41 islands and cays, and only nine are inhabited. An excursion by boat offers a taste of the Castaway existence (well, one where the champagne is free flowing). We board Big Blue Collective’s 42ft long yacht, Whitesands, for a sampler of the wider excursions that are available, lasting from two hours to a full day, that encompass reef snorkelling, deserted beaches and whale watching depending on the season (January to April for humpbacks).

We drop anchor in a cove and dive off the yacht into peacock-blue waters, sipping drinks on an inflatable raft, before climbing back onboard for a hearty lunch.

Cruising back to the marina, I’m indulging in a little daydream that I am one of the super-wealthy celebrities who flock to these islands. It’s a giddy feeling that’s only amplified by a visit to Wymara’s Villas. A short drive from the main resort is a collection of villas with oceanfront infinity pools, over-water swimming platforms and a few even have slides that drop you in the sea. The decor is contemporary, their big blue views are out of this world. It’s possible to enjoy a completely private holiday in these villas, making them a draw for the Hollywood jet set, and with a concierge team catering for every need and whim, there’s no reason to leave.

On our final night we enjoy the in-villa culinary experience with a gala dinner on the outdoor terrace, attended by island dignitaries. Here I meet Bruce Maclaren, a founding partner of Wymara and a hands-on leader, who happens to take the sport of pickleball – a trend that’s sweeping the Caribbean – very seriously.

“It’s a big deal for us, having a first direct flight, it opens a lot of doors,” he says about the new Virgin Atlantic service. “It’s an exciting time to be in the Turks and Caicos. It’s a very unique destination, and one we feel has the power to be addictive. A first-time guest will become a repeat guest.”

Given how many turns I have had on the villa’s water slide, I’m inclined to agree. Turks and Caicos is my new addiction – and I’ll happily stay in its grip for ever.

Book it: Lusso offers seven nights’ B&B for the price of five at Wymara Resort from £4,895pp, based on two sharing a one-bedroom oceanfront suite. Includes Virgin Atlantic flights, valid for stays between 1 June and 30 September; lussotravel.com; virginatlantic.com. For excursions mentioned, see bigbluecollective.com